Speakers Nominal Power handling/Amplifier
It looks like that Jamo does not have a high pass filter. You will have to run the Cantons full range. You can always use an external high pass filter if you want to relieve the bass duties of your amp. Years ago when I had a subwoofer I used this HSU High pass filter and it did the job quite well!! http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/high-pass-filter.html |
@scott22, you may want to check out FAQ (manufacturers) and search for 'subwoofer connection type' the two ways to get a signal to the Subwoofer. One type Pre Out (Low Level) on the Pre Amp Output Panel and a Line Level (Amplified Signal) at the Speaker Cable connection. Some Subwoofers don't have both types. Again refer to User Manual / FAQ / Support by the manufacturers for information and make an effort to understand the specifics. |
Since much has already been said, i’ll keep this brief. First, Millercarbon hits the technical highlights. The exponential power relationship with volume is the primary reason though, why power ratings are overblown. This is because of the necessary corollary: if you did have, say 140 w/ch you’d only get a tiny volume increase. and at 280w a BIG amp) another small increase. Your speakers will never play all that loud in a large room. But that may not really matter. If the room is small enough, and you listen at modest enough levels, all will be fine. I am actually more leery about the overall quality of the Technics receiver; especially since inefficient mini monitors tend to be very equipment fussy. That said i know nothing first had about the Cantons. As to speaker power: simply keep the amp below its level of audible distortion. The only way a modestly powered amp will damage a speaker is if you over-drive it. At the point of clipping (when the signal its the power supply rail and abruptly ends) a large % of high frequency (and awful sounding) distortion is generated, all of which goes to the tiny, fragile tweeter, which gets hot and says "later dude". Under all other circumstances there is no issue whatsoever, except that, again, a modestly made receiver/integrated amp simply may not have the guts to sound the best. Hope it works out well, trust your ears. G ps: sorry failed to keep it brief |
When you are playing with maximum limits, here are the rough over engineered rules: 1) Use PEAK power handling value of a speaker and the RMS value of your amplifier. 2) An amplifier should typically be rated at an RMS power value at least about 1.5 times the peak handling capability of your speaker. Otherwise clipping may occur. The general rule of thumb is that an UNDER powered amplifier is much more likely to damage a speaker than the other way round (especially if the amp does not have any clipping protection). A 10 watt amplifier will EASILY destroy a 200 watt speaker instantly simply by clipping. The reverse is less likely to happen since you will have a bit more time to react to the sounds coming out of an overloaded speaker and turn it down before it does any damage. Clipping can destroy instantly but overpowering takes a little longer which gives you a bit more more time to react to turn your amplifier down. The moral of the story is not to push the limits of the equipment you have. |
OP, People talk about the quality of the watts, too, so there may be additional options besides high sensitivity speakers. https://trueaudiophile.com/phony-watts/ |
