Never Owned a Tube Amp and Want Advice


Hi All, 

I have never owned a tube amplifier before and am planning to purchase one with a minimum of 50 watts per channel to mate with 8 ohm 88 dbl speakers.

My hope is experienced audiogoners will share their expertise regarding how to approach this. While I realize listening is the best way to learn about sound and compatibility; I want to learn a better understanding about brands with less maintenance and longer tube life, how to decide between mono or stereo,can a newbie play with bias or is auto biasing a better first choice, etc.

I would also appreciate what to look for in selecting a used tube amp to identify one that might be in need of repair. For example, with solid state depending on the brand, capacitor replacement can be more of a concern. Any advice on what to look out for or ask about with used tube amps would be appreciated.

A big question I have is how to understand the relationship between power tubes like E34's, 120.s, etc. and, I guess the driver? tubes like 12au7's and 12at7's. That  is to ask which is more critical to the overall sound of the amp? FWIW, I routinely tube roll with my preamps.  

I 've read through a number of threads but maybe someone can point me to good ones I may have missed. 

Thanks for listening,

Dsper
dsper
What you see here, ladies and gentlemen, is one of the more interesting effects of the demise of brick/mortar retail. To quote the President: “Sad.”
I recommend massive online research and Bach.
Used to be you could trundle over to the stereo store and get all this out of the way right there in the actual presence of the gear! What a concept!
As an old retailer I can tell you I found this virus-enabled retail revolution to be a bit abrupt. 
Hi All, 

I reread this thread and want to thank you all for your comments and shared information. I did some more homework by reading other threads, referring to Harley's book, etc. and decided I needed "just do it" and purchase a tube amp.  I figured used at $2,000 and a reputable manufacturer was a good place to start and would allow decent resale potential.

I have acquired a Conrad Johnson LP66S. I set it up about three weeks ago while my better half was at exercise class: Theta ProBasic III DAC, Perfectwave Transport, PL Dialogue Premium and then my CJ 17LS2 preamp; with the LP66S replacing McCormack DNA-500 and Coda CS amps, and going into Tyler Acoustics MMX5's. Saving the turntable for later.

Initial impressions after some 30 hours of listening with the CJ amp:

First, no immediately noticeable problem with power or loudness.

Second, the overall sound seems more dense. I lost some of that when I switched out the Thiel CS5's for the Tylers. Now it is mostly back about 80 - 90 percent. FWIW, I think the Thiels were known for that politeness at the expense of some dynamics. The bass with the tube amp seems more solid and clear in the mix while still being textured.

Third, I think I hear more detail with the CJ amp. I am listening to Adele's "19" and on the song "Love", for example, there is noticeably more sheen to the celeste. Also more sheen and brass to the cymbals on JJ Cale's "Troubadour".

FOURTH, I definitely have a layered soundstage and am listening to music and not just the speakers. I think there are more ambient clues and better tonal decay. These positives really showed up with the CJ preamp. The PL preamp sounded lifeless in comparison. I mean like night and day different.

The previous owner was not using the CJ amp routinely and suggested that the amp capacitors might need a couple of long listening sessions to reconstitute the capacitors.....

By the way, I would not be afraid to buy again from "Tuggs" in Washington state. Excellent packing job and the amp looks like new! No trouble with FedEx.

Lastly, given I have changed out both speakers and amps, I have broken the rule about changing one component at a time. Having said that, there is still a touch of sibilance I noticed upon installing the Tylers that has not gone away regardless of preamp/amp combinations. Poor recordings are not a fun listen.

The MM5Xs are brand new speakers with SEAS Tweeters and I have listened to them for about 100 hours. Tyler Lashbrook advised me from the very beginning that they can take a couple hundred hours to break in.... 

Such a fine mess I have created with things to learn and adjust.

Most important, I can hear music and not just the speakers.

Again, I appreciate the responses and advice. You all helped me. Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Thank you! Dsper
congrats on a good choice and a good result

c-j gear is simply beyond reproach in build quality and sound quality and there is certainly an expected, lovely synergy between the 17LS2 and the LP66...

my premier 16LS2 and ET5 are forever pieces - they may be equalled by others but ever surpassed for the listening pleasure they bring

enjoy!
Regarding the sibilance- that really shouldn't be showing up at all, even on a new speaker (it might be bright until it breaks in, but sibilance suggests something wrong).


Does it do this on all sources?
Does it do this on all sources?
To be clear, I am talking about "bliss" and "sound" versus "blisss" and "ssound".

It is not a problem on all CDs. Better recorded ones seem to be less of an issue.

I had inserted my Hegel HD25 DAC and it was slightly worse and generally more harsh.

My Theta R2R DAC is more resolving and detailed.

I am wondering if the SEAS Excel tweeter is just going to be more work than I thought.

Ty Lashbrook and I had discussed what resistor to use for the tweeters before I ordered the speakers. I do not recall where we landed on that discussion but he said that, once I had a couple hundred hours on the speakers, I could easily change the resistor to shape the sound a bit. I have no idea if a resistor change would solve the problem. And in all fairness, I have not yet called Ty to discuss.

Thanks for listening,  

Dsper