Anyone try the replica B-60 Fidelity Research VTA?

I'm lucky enough to have both an original FR B60 and the Ikeda VTA-06. Yeah, they're basically the same level of quality and functionality. But the set-screws on the older B60 have gotten kind of gnarly - I don't have a hex key that really fits and grips them well - just very marginally. No such worries on the VTA-06. I can lock things down nice and tight. ALSO the VTA-06 has some lovely flat faces on its main barrel, rather than being completely smooth and round everywhere, which makes it far easier to tighten onto an arm-board.

So the VTA-06 is the one I use on my main 64S & Koetsu setup. 

The reproduction B60 has those flat faces on the huge nut that fastens from below, if that’s the part to which you refer. Yes, it’s very handy for tightening but wasn’t so handy for loosening, when recently I wanted to dismount the B60. I couldn’t get a wrench in there, and I was not able to turn it by hand. I therefore decided I could live without ever removing the B60. That’s what you call pragmatism.

Luis, True, the B60 is not required, but I think it does much more than add the convenience of VTA adjustment. Its mass (I think) per se acts as an energy sink for any vibrations that travel through the arm wand to the pivot, and it therefore adds a nice solidity to bass tones. I emphasize that this is an empiric reasoning on my part. I have not proven it. My FR64S is mounted in a B60 which sits in a custom made aluminum arm board on my QL10 (TT101) plinth. The arm board is further bulked up by a second heavy piece of aluminum that bolts up to the bottom of the board using a massive metric bolt. Thus the FR64S is very well anchored in a large mass of alu. (One reason I had difficulty removing the B60; it sits in a tight space.) I copied the concept from my Kenwood L07D.

I emphasize that this is an empiric reasoning on my part. I have not proven it.

Talking about being pragmatic :)
Thanks Lew, I get it, well let's see if I can fish one replica
Or get a better job where I can spend whatever I want on audio

mulveling, I was not able to find expression ''gnarly'' in my English
dictionary but assume that you mean ''worn out srews''. Those which
function is to fasten the arm on the collar can be bought as separates.  Also with the right Allen key. The original FR screws have
an plastic piece on their ''nose'' to prefent damage on the aluminum
skale or steel parts. I made those myself and glued on the screws
''nose''. I hope you will be able to fasten your ''old B-60'' firmly this
way. 

For those with the Ikeda base, on the inside of the threaded shaft there is a slot with a pin that rides within that. Does your pin travel the entire length of the slot while using the adjuster knob? Mine goes all the way to the bottom but then only about halfway up the slot. I notice the Ikeda spec says 10mm of adjustment. I don’t think I’m getting that but I’ll measure tonight to be sure.