More power for moderate listening levels?


Hi,

I can't seem to find good information regarding the effect of relatively high powered amps on low to moderate listening levels. I have a low powered class A amp that sounds wonderful at moderate volumes but not surprisingly shows signs of strain when cranked up. I am contemplating an upgrade that would bring much more power to solve this problem. However, since I don't play music really loud that often I'm wondering if the upgrade is really all that necessary. It would be worth it if the reserve power of the new amplifier improved sound quality at all levels.     

Thanks for your help,

Brian
brianbiehs
I don't think you need more power, but you may need different power.

As a counter point, if you can listen to Ayre, Bryston and Luxman you should.


86 db sensitivity 25 wpc amp? LOL Do you have a buddy with Parasound, A21,23.  Something like that. Krell 100 or 250 wpc, Mark L will push those puppies.. If you want a pitch black background, some type of class d. They are 1/3 the cost of the Pass but 25 X the power.

Not only will they power your speakers, you can see for yourself, without all the bluster about less efficient speakers. BLA BLA BLA...

NOT twice as much 25 times as much..... BUY a bigger amp..

25 watts per channel is 25 watts per channel

If you you want to one up that, Treat as much of the room as you can stand.  I like as little room treatment as possible.

Those are great sounding speakers, with accurate factory measurements.  86 is just fine with todays amps that are from 2-2000 watts, EASY 2-3-4000 WPC not uncommon. No need to scrimp..

So were are clear, I own Pass, First Watt, and two kits I built... and at least 3 pairs of speakers that are 84%.. They can sound up
50 X 50 X 15 dance floor to over 100 db... CLEARLY... Zero floor noise zip nada..... That's with an old vinyl rig too (Russco) and a C20 Mac.

25 wpc? At least it's a good 25 watts... NOW 250 or better...

Regards
Hello,
I agree with so many of you it is hard to keep track. I have had the exact same issues all corrected by the things said in this thread. 200 watt class A to crank up the volume. A used pass 250, you are talking some serious money. I have tried the Ayre, Mark Levenson, Hegel. It’s not the amp it’s the speakers. You can pull 45,000 pounds of freight with a semi-tractor/trailer but only go about 75 Mph or pull practically nothing in a Porsche and go 200 mph plus. To get something to cover it all it’s tough and very expensive. That’s why Porsche doesn’t make semi trucks and Mack doesn’t make sports cars. 
 It’s very simple. For the dance parties get a different pair of speakers like very efficient Klipsch RP-600m maybe with a separate amp. You need a very efficient speaker with a horn or horns in it. Maybe upgrade to the Cornwall. A lot of people put them on the wall so they can be out of the way or maybe on a completely different wall. I say leave your nice sounding system alone and create a second system. You might be able to get away with a BlueNode Powernode 2i $899 with the Klipsch RP-600m on sale now for $450. All the home theater guys love Klipsch speakers and ported SVS subs for home theater because they play loud very well. Everyone who watches a movie in my theater says it’s the best sounding home theater they have been in. That’s because my system is setup for quality not quantity. It will play loud enough for it to be a little uncomfortable which I don’t do.  This can be a rabbit hole you don’t get out of and can be very expensive. Better to avoid the rabbit hole all together. Concert speakers are not audiofile speakers. They consist of an array of horns with humongous bass drivers. If you need the bass to go with your face party add an inexpensive ported sub. 
In my opinion the most overlooked spec when choosing an amp is the reserve amps or instantaneous amps. This is a power reserve that helps especially in the midrange and lower end. It will also improve dynamics and overall sound at all levels. This is a simplified explanation but I don't want to right a whole book here.
Here's the thing.. That  Mack and that Porsche both have close to the same horsepower, and torque.. Look them up you'll see. 2-500 hp with
1-2000 foot lbs of torque..  The difference is the size of the parts..... 
Foot lb of torque... BIGGER

Same thing with speakers, it's where the speaker starts to distort not how efficient it is. The E factor is rather arbitrary, IF the distortion is LOW and reproduction is correct, Audiofile or not.... That is my end of the line goal.

If I can reproduce quality sound from 40db to 115db, I'm a pretty happy soul.  I don't use my ears either.  I've found if you don't run sound test, and collect your own data, your wasting your time..

When I mentioned the 84% speakers, the factory was 89 or 91.. THEY aren't usually accurate, and it's REAL easy to fudge the measurements.

Bigger amp, treat the room... You want to make sure to run some test and see if its running out of gas, and distorting... Pass is not the end all amp it's made out to be.. It is a great amp though.. I like Ampzilla, Serious amp, there. Hook a single 2000, up.. You'll see.. Compare the two..
Wish I would have never sold them...:-( You could have turn them up until your ears bleed, with those speakers... 25 watts is 25 watts plane and simple.

Regards