Hello dodgealum,
It sounds like you already have picked out the sub you want to use and it's a high efficiency passive sub, with passive meaning it has no internal amplifier. I just have a few suggestions for you based on my fairly extensive experience incorporating 1-4 subs in my system utilizing Magnepan main speakers with a rated bass extension of only 35 Hz:
1. A pair of subs will perform roughly twice as well as a single sub in virtually any room and system. The bass will be smoother, faster, more dynamic, as powerful as the source material calls for and with a greater sense of ease, more detailed and better integrated with your main speakers regardless of their speaker type.
2. The bass will likely sound more detailed and natural to you if you power your sub or subs with a class AB amp instead of a class D amp. The reason is due to the extremely high rated damping factors of most class D amps, often rated above 1,000 while class AB amps are typically rated in the 100-400 range.
The higher the rated damping figure of an amp, the more precisely it is able to control the starting and stopping of the sub's transducer, which I believe is a normal dynamic cone woofer in your sub. This precise control is usually considered a beneficial quality in a sub amp. But if the amp's rated damping factor is excessively high, such as over1,000 on some class D amps, then the amp has the capacity to very suddenly and abruptly stop the woofer as the woofer travels along its normal in and out or up and down path motion. The audible result, of a woofer suddenly and abruptly stopping along its path, is that the normal, natural, slow and gradual decay times of deep bass notes are truncated.
This premature ending of normal note decay times are more noticeable and annoying, of course, on certain types of instruments, certain types of music and in the deeper keys. The main point being your music will be audibly less natural and enjoyable, less so on most rock music than on other types of music in my experience.
What's a viable solution? I'd suggest you use a good quality but reasonably priced mono class AB sub amp like the Dayton SA1000 for about $300-400 from Parts Express or some other retailer, use a pair of good quality subs and optimally position each in your room, and in relation to your designated listening seat, by utilizing the 'sub crawl method' (which you can google for details).
Best wishes,
Tim
It sounds like you already have picked out the sub you want to use and it's a high efficiency passive sub, with passive meaning it has no internal amplifier. I just have a few suggestions for you based on my fairly extensive experience incorporating 1-4 subs in my system utilizing Magnepan main speakers with a rated bass extension of only 35 Hz:
1. A pair of subs will perform roughly twice as well as a single sub in virtually any room and system. The bass will be smoother, faster, more dynamic, as powerful as the source material calls for and with a greater sense of ease, more detailed and better integrated with your main speakers regardless of their speaker type.
2. The bass will likely sound more detailed and natural to you if you power your sub or subs with a class AB amp instead of a class D amp. The reason is due to the extremely high rated damping factors of most class D amps, often rated above 1,000 while class AB amps are typically rated in the 100-400 range.
The higher the rated damping figure of an amp, the more precisely it is able to control the starting and stopping of the sub's transducer, which I believe is a normal dynamic cone woofer in your sub. This precise control is usually considered a beneficial quality in a sub amp. But if the amp's rated damping factor is excessively high, such as over1,000 on some class D amps, then the amp has the capacity to very suddenly and abruptly stop the woofer as the woofer travels along its normal in and out or up and down path motion. The audible result, of a woofer suddenly and abruptly stopping along its path, is that the normal, natural, slow and gradual decay times of deep bass notes are truncated.
This premature ending of normal note decay times are more noticeable and annoying, of course, on certain types of instruments, certain types of music and in the deeper keys. The main point being your music will be audibly less natural and enjoyable, less so on most rock music than on other types of music in my experience.
What's a viable solution? I'd suggest you use a good quality but reasonably priced mono class AB sub amp like the Dayton SA1000 for about $300-400 from Parts Express or some other retailer, use a pair of good quality subs and optimally position each in your room, and in relation to your designated listening seat, by utilizing the 'sub crawl method' (which you can google for details).
Best wishes,
Tim