HI,
So the caps I was suggesting is the same exact idea.
You'd just have to build your own RCA cable. :)
So the caps I was suggesting is the same exact idea.
You'd just have to build your own RCA cable. :)
What is Floyd Toole saying about extra amplifier power and headroom?
I've been reading Floyd Toole's "Sound Reproduction The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms" and came across a passage that I wish he went into further detail about. It has to do with whether having amplifier headroom has any noticeable improvement in sq. He happens to be talking about getting the bass right in small rooms, but in doing so, he also touches on the use of a larger amp for extra headroom:
It's the last part ("useless headroom") that I'm curious about. I have notoriously hard-to-drive speakers (Magico Mini IIs). Although the recommended amplification is 50w - 200w, in my experience, that's a bit of an underestimation. I'm driving the Minis with a Musical Fidelity M6PRX, which is rated at 230w @ 8ohms. (The Minis are 4ohm.) The combination sounds excellent to my ears at low to moderate listening levels, but I notice a slight compression in the soundstage at higher levels. My listening room, while small, is fairly well treated with DIY panels made from Rockwool, sound-absorbent curtains, and thick carpeting. So I don't think I'm overloading the room. But I have wondered if an amp with far more power than what's suggested (more headroom) would drive the speakers with a little less effort.
Those of you familiar with Toole or with driving speakers with power to spare, what are your experiences? If I went with, say, a pair of monoblocks that drive 600w @ 4ohm, would the extra headroom address the compression I'm hearing at higher levels? Or am I wasting my time and, potentially, funds that would be better spent elsewhere?
Thanks!
Remedies for unacceptable situations typically included spending more money on a loudspeaker with a “better” woofer (without useful technical specifications, that was a lottery of another kind) and a bigger amplifier (for useless headroom ...
It's the last part ("useless headroom") that I'm curious about. I have notoriously hard-to-drive speakers (Magico Mini IIs). Although the recommended amplification is 50w - 200w, in my experience, that's a bit of an underestimation. I'm driving the Minis with a Musical Fidelity M6PRX, which is rated at 230w @ 8ohms. (The Minis are 4ohm.) The combination sounds excellent to my ears at low to moderate listening levels, but I notice a slight compression in the soundstage at higher levels. My listening room, while small, is fairly well treated with DIY panels made from Rockwool, sound-absorbent curtains, and thick carpeting. So I don't think I'm overloading the room. But I have wondered if an amp with far more power than what's suggested (more headroom) would drive the speakers with a little less effort.
Those of you familiar with Toole or with driving speakers with power to spare, what are your experiences? If I went with, say, a pair of monoblocks that drive 600w @ 4ohm, would the extra headroom address the compression I'm hearing at higher levels? Or am I wasting my time and, potentially, funds that would be better spent elsewhere?
Thanks!
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- 120 posts total
I originally drove a pair of Acoustat 1100's with a Sumo Andromeda II A power amp... 240 into 8, 400 into 4 and 750 into 2. They are a combination woofer module and a tall electrostatic element. The panels dip as far down as 2 ohms at 10K and over frequencies. I thought that was plenty of power until I decided to bi-amp and use a second matching stereo amp. Woofer modules are fed with one channel of each amp and the panels get a channel of each amp. Bass was tighter and better controlled immediately, transients such as snare drum and all percussion was much better, instantly. |
All of you are above my knowledge, but would extra power provide less distortion as a result of not having to push thing so hard to achieve a certain volume level. I would also think matching efficient speakers could also help. What about adding a pair of REL Subwoofer. Reason why I mention REL is I like their high level connection because this enables them to act more like woofers to extend the bass seamlessly. Since they are powered this is an efficient way to reproduce bass. Wish I had the knowledge of this group. I'd be curious to know how many of you are dealers because you are certainly technical. I learn a great deal from all of you. |
I run XLR cables to my sub because when I've run RCA, there's a low-level hum from the sub that completely goes away when I use XLR cables.DBX makes a DSP unit that has XLR outputs. https://dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-pa2 If you shop around I think you can find one around the same price point as a MIniDSP. Inline RCA active crossover? They make high pass filters for 70hz and 100hz. Any reason why these wouldn’t work?These would work provided the crossover point the you need is either 70 or 100 Hz and they give you the proper slope. A DSP unit will give you many more crossover point options and should offer several different slopes. @noble100 Hi Tim, I do not have any actual experience with the MiniDSP. My experience is with DBX and XTA and both of those allow you to configure the outputs in any manner that you desire, From what I have read and heard, I'm assuming that the MiniDSP works the same way. |
@diamonddupree Here is a post that is related to your original question. https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/coda-no-16-amplifier.31078/page-2 (post #22). I am interested in the same amp as this guy. It looks like this guy will have 2 amps to compare side-by-side in January. Here is what he is referring to on V1 and V3. V1: 150 Watts x 2 into 8 Ohms 300 Watts x 2 into 4 Ohms 600 Watts x 2 into 2 Ohms Class A ~18 Watts V2: 250 Watts x 2 into 8 Ohms 500 Watts x 2 into 4 Ohms 1000 Watts x 2 into 2 Ohms Class A ~12 Watts V3: 400 Watts x 2 into 8 Ohms 800 Watts x 2 into 4 Ohms 1600 Watts x 2 into 2 Ohms Class A ~8 Watts |
- 120 posts total