A lot of suggestions offered. Unfortunately the bulk of them will NOT bring about a significant improvement. In fact unless the room acoustics are sorted the small but worth while potential of some of these suggestions will be lost in your room which leads people to refer to some as 'snake oil'
To get to hear the sound your existing components are capable of requires that your room allow you to do so. Changing cables etc. in your room as it stands is futile as some have mentioned. With sound left to propagate in your room unchecked, causing smear, congestion and lack of detail you will not be able to fully appreciate what the already mentioned Max Townshend platforms can bring to the party. Ditto with cable lifters, AC filters and so forth.
A bit of theory but let me first relate what a stubborn mate found out. In a small almost square floorplan with no carpet or drapes and very little else he kept upgrading to progressively more expensive cartridges and was getting nowhere. And he never will. He has upgraded amps and speakers at great expense but not achieved much. I brought round a bunch of rockwool panels and distributed them without too much fuss. It was merely to demonstrate what was possible.
It transformed his system. I do not say that lightly. He and is ever suffering wife were stunned.
I have copied and pasted part of a post of mine from another forum:
For whatever reason, treating a room is low on the priority list or just
completely ignored. The Royal Albert Hall in the UK had a big problem with the
dome. People joked about the echo, saying: you can hear any piece twice
at the RAH. After many attempts they resorted to dispersion by
installing large 'upside down mushrooms.
My point being, all rooms need acoustic treatment and the smaller the
room the more important it is. All it takes to tackle this
scientifically is to download for FREE the very useful REW and buy, for
about the same price as modest interconnect cable, a microphone. Online
you can find, also free, programs that will identify the modal issues.
So you let REW produce a waterfall plot of your room. This will show
exactly where the peaks and nulls lie and also the amount of time the
sound takes to decay.
How long should that decay be? Good question. Work out the volume of
your room and find online a table that provides the correct T60 for that
size room. T60 is the time it takes for the sound to decay by 60dB and
for my room is about 400ms.
This is not expensive, provides a bigger 'upgrade' than any component
swap and is great fun. When I first did this I found it to be quite
exciting to watch the waterfall plot reveal that the peaks were being
tamed and the nulls started filling in. Bass traps are needed to reach
the lower frequencies and as I added them I noticed that what was
previously a partial or complete null start reaching up to the mean
amplitude.
For anybody reading this not familiar with peaks and nulls on a plot, a
complete null is zero music. When this fills in from preventing bass
waves from combining destructively you now get to hear parts of the
music not previously heard. When preventing bass from combining
constructively you tame the peaks which lead to one-note-bass. On my
system I can hear all the detail of Ray Brown' double bass and its
wonderful.
No amount of money thrown at bigger better amps and/or speakers can
provide that music being cancelled in the nulls. It's gone and you ain't
getting it back unless you address the cancellation problem. And no
Sir, EQ can not bring it back. Partial nulls can be boosted a little but
this will not help the power response. Some nulls will require maybe a
20dB boost but where will your power come from. A 12dB boost will need
power doubled 4 times. So from 60 watts to 960 watts but of course there
are not many domestic speakers that can handle 1Kw and even if they
could would just cancel those particular frequencies with the same
power!
Small scraps of foam, beach towels and bookcases just physically can't achieve this unfortunately.
As you can see from my comments above EQ can not in any way manufacture the music missing in the nulls. Partial nulls can be boosted but only a little before the amp runs out of power. Those Lyngdorf type units can help only if the main acoustics are reasonable. It should be obvious that the unit certainly can't take a group of frequencies and reduce its decay time. Correct room treatment can.
Also if you are not interested in the effort to measure then simply absorbing at the first reflection points and adding a couple of bass traps will make a significant difference. A DBA will improve things further.
This post is getting too long so I'll finish by saying I can see an easy way for you to install some treatment that can benefit the stereo side and home theater and without it getting in the way. Simple and adjustable.
Let me know if you are interested. I have spent considerable time with another member emailing back and forth only to get an email from his wife : "Look here, we're not interested"