Last Audition - Blown Away By A Lottery System

@barts I'm on my 2nd GL1800 (with Aluma trailer) and have been waiting for Honda to make the needed changes to the top case and passenger backrest - they finally did that for '21.  The '06 sits besides my '18 Aprilia Tuono and '18 Tiger 1200.

Yes it would appear you are F-ed. Mostly by your own attitude though.
You were worked by a salesman. Now start to find out how to make a $20k system
sound like a $200k system. Can be done if patient. 

@p05129 I know what these Revel F226Be are capable of. I can easily hear the difference A/B'ing against various speakers in dealer show rooms. The point is, nothing sounds good in my room.
Btw, I run them on a Monoprice 5x. 200 Wpc RMS, basically an ATI 4000 series amp.

For 20 grand you could assemble a vintage system that would blow away the high overpriced new stuff it would blow your mind.

@bgm1911
Heavily dependent on type of music you like, you’ll need to decide:
1) Source type: Analog, Digital, or both
2) Midrange warmth/bloom vs neutral/linear
3) Amount of desired bass energy

1) For the components:
Base system: Preamp>Amp>Speakers
Analog: turntable+tonearm+cartridge>phono-stage
Digital: server>streamer>DAC, optional transport
Cables
2) Generally speaking: tube electronics gives the midrange warmth but the tube amps are generate low power. So with tube amps you have to match with an efficient speaker or add more tube+electronics ($) to increase power. SS (Solid State) electronics offer significantly more power, better linear response, better defined bass, and often better highs (treble). Some folks combine a tube preamp with a SS amp to get more power.
3) If bass energy is important, then you’ll need to move a lot of air aka more power needed.

You may want to choose your electronics first then decide which speakers match, or choose your speaker first then decide on the supporting electronics.

If you want to stretch your dollar, buy used gear carefully. You can even try out used gear thru buying and selling which should minimize your cash outlay. But keep in mind that selling a particular brand/model takes time based on demand.

The technology and sound quality of DACs has been growing fast the last few years. If a DAC is required, I’d choose a more recent model.

Cables - at least upgrade from stock or box store products. Many believe that "power" cables are the most important. Some companies allow a free trial time like 30days.

Integrated Amps (PreAmp+Amp) are cheaper than separates because it saves on casework and additional cables. Some include or are optional: a DAC and/or a phono-stage which is also cheaper than buying separates - make sure you research their performance.

Great price/performance gear:

Turntable+tonearm:
Mofi Ultradeck $2k, $2.5k with MasterTracker cartridge

Speakers-
GoldenEar offers great price/performance as well as Tekton, but be aware that Tekton speakers are relatively large.

PreAmp+Amp-
ELAC Alchemy DDP-2 Preamplifier/DAC/Streamer +
ELAC Alchemy DPA-2 Stereo/Mono Amplifier (210 wpc)
both for $5k ($4k on sale now at Audio Advice)
Designed by Peter Madnick of Constellation Audio fame

SS Integrated-
* Hegel H390 includes DAC (250wpc) $6k
* Cambridge Audio Edge A includes DAC (100wpc, Stereophile measured 145wpc) $6k
* Aesthetix Mimas (150wpc) $7k (add $1250 each for DAC and phono options; $500, headphone amp. The phono option got a great review in TAS Feb 2021 issue)
* Krell K300i (150wpc) $7k (add $1000 for optional DAC) - Class A amplification (tube-like warmer sound without the power limitation). This was my final choice until I blew my budget on used Constellation Inspiration electronics (TAS 50 Greatest Bargains in High-end Audio)

Hope this helpful, best of luck