Is my anti-skating too strong.


I’m trying to adjust the alignment of the Ortofon Black Quintet cartridge on my Music Hall mmf 9.3 turntable.  When I put the stylus down on the alignment protractor, the tone arm pulls to the outer edge of the turntable.   Should I disable anti skating when doing alignment or is it set too strong?  Obviously haven’t done this too often.
Also, when listening to the anti skating track on The Ultimate Analogue Test LP, there is noticeable distortion at the end of the track which indicates too much or too little anti skating.  Any guidance here?
udog
Thanks to everyone that helped educate this forum on the math and physics related to anti-skate. Hopefully we can all agree anti-skate exists. Question is how is the best way to set it. Not sure there is a best way.
 I use the following methods.
1. Use a blank test album. This will get you into the ballpark. Problem with this method is you can only use the blank portion of the disc 1 maybe 2 times, do to micro grooves forming.
2. Use a test album with a modulated signal, adjust as needed.
3. Play an album and look at how your cartridge is tracking.
4. Listen to music and try to trust your ears.
If you have test equipment, oscilloscope, distortion meter and other equipment there are a few test albums out there you can use.
Again thanks to all for the education.
joe

@larryi , The LT is much less expensive, $8K to $10K depending on where you get it from and which version you get. I would get it directly from one of Frank's dealers in Europe. Yes, the Reed is very expensive and complicated. The Schroder does exactly the same thing but in a much more elegant fashion. 
There are other factors than just the quality of the bass. No record is perfectly flat or concentric. With high horizontal effective mass the cantilever reacts before the arm, remember the cantilever and stylus have to pull the arm along, then the arm gets going and continues on taking the cantilever and stylus along with it and you get this low frequency oscillation which causes a lot of distortion. I have watched several air bearing arms and Clearaudio arms and you can usually see it happening. The same problem occurs with arms that have a high polar moment of inertia. This is the rational for limiting mass at the end of the arm and is why SME changed their approach to tonearm design with the model V and all the best arms followed suite avoiding removable head shells and unnecessary mass out there. I hate to say this but removable head shells are for lazy people. Some designs like the Kuzma and the method Schroder uses are tolerable. The Kuzma looks bulky but the alloy is very light. He is trying to maintain stiffness and may be going a little overboard. The Schroder design looks sort of flimsy but it is not. The cartridge locks in solidly.  I have a new Schroder CB which is waiting for it's turntable. I think if you are a cartridge jockey multiple arms or tables is a better solution than removable head shells of the old SME type that the Japanese are so fond of. Most of us install a cartridge and leave it be for years. I have multiple cartridges but there is always one I like best and that is the one that stays in the arm. The others just sit in a draw. I sold a bunch of them. I decided I'd rather collect records.    
@joenies,@joenies, you missed one! Direct measurement either with a WallySkater or something like my Gizmo and your digital stylus gauge.
mijostynAbsolutely. The more tools we have in our toolbox the better.
 I don’t have a Wallyskater. I have looked at them but have not purchased one yet. At the moment I’m have difficulty visualizing how you setup your digital stylus gauge. I’ll relook at your other post.
joe
@lewm , I am not arguing about the coefficient of friction. That would be silly. However, play a blank record then have a look at it under the light. Then talk to me. If you do not have a blank record The Lumineers Cleopatra has a blank third side.