Mystery Capacitor and the Tangent RS4 Crossover

3.72, 10mfd parallel = 2.711

But beyond that,  I have to believe that they would not have gone to that expense to do it that way, a small film cap would be cost effective vs all of that mish mash.  My head says that overall you are correct, but I'd want to run real measurements and see why they ran the .47 the way they did vs just putting it straight in parallel with the other parts. When building I tend to verify everything in measurements.  

Great dialog timlub and imhififan. Your raising some of the questions I have been wondering about as a novice in this arena. For instance is the capacitor only important as a capacitor or do its other properties such as inductance and resistance enter into shaping the sound. I am appreciating more and more why people get degrees in this stuff:-)
Another question is what is the importance of the type of capacitor to the sound? Film, electrolytic, surface mount...these are terms I quickly ran into which brought me up short. Let me share a picture of the caps from this crossover.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GPHoB3gnQhPUqh-ccHUbzXtPjyAgKBoG/view?usp=sharing
I think these are all electrolytic except for the green one clearly labeled "filmcap" (Duh) and the little clear one which I suspect is called a surface mount capacitor because of its shape and size. So the question is does replacing a film cap or a surface mount with an electrolytic with the same capacitance make any difference with regard to it's function in the crossover.
You will note in the picture is the infamous pink mystery cap that prompted the start of this thread, which has since measured at 2.25mF. I'd be curious if there is anyone out there who can tell me that the color code matches my measurement. For your entertainment here is a picture of the notes that resulted as I tried to decipher the color code.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F6a-P8_wewgkkVqZXlnlbMiLfIwCBAfH/view?usp=sharing

@bruce19     The pink cap is a film cap,  most likely a mylar.  If you are doing the work yourself, I would recommend replacing the parts with Polypropylene caps throughout.    If they were mine,  I'd do a complete crossover rebuild based on listening to the parts individually and measurements.    Its hard to give much advice without a ton of information that we will not likely get on a thread like this.  Good luck,  
Tim 

@timlub As it turns out I have gone that route with guidance from the stellar tech support man, Josh, at Madisound I bought a mix of Solen and Claritycap polypropylene caps. It is worth mentioning that Solen is made in  France and Clarity is made in England and the Tangent's Audax woofer was made in France and the KEF tweeter was of course made in England. Nice little symmetry eh?

You'll find out if you nice symmetry when your finished.  The folks at Madisound are nice folks, but through the years, I've learned to get it right, I had to do it myself.  I didn't always get accurate advice. Hopefully, all will work out well for you. I started building speakers in 1979 and started in the speaker business in 1980.