Mystery Capacitor and the Tangent RS4 Crossover


 I have a pair of Tangent RS4s whose crossovers I am currently in the midst of trying to rebuild (Early 80s British 2 way speaker). I used to power them in the 80s with an Adcom GFA1 amp (200 watts/channel which I understand both Bob Carver and Nelson Pass had a hand in designing back when Adcom was based in New Brunswick, NJ, my old home town). Apparently, either time or I did a fair amount of damage to those caps (probably both) and some are hard to id, particularly one that looks like a piece of pink sugar coated candy with green, white and violet stripes? I'm working on a schematic for this crossover so I can get some expert opinion on the project and maybe id the capacitor value by process of elimination. But I am new to this and am learning as I go. If there is anyone out there interested or who could lend some assistance I would be happy to share/learn.
I set out to simply replace the caps but am beginning to question the design and wonder if it could not be improved upon. For starters it seems to have a lot of caps for a two way crossover (8 in five styles), plus 2 resistors and 3 coils. Modern designs I have looked at typically have two or three caps for 2 two way crossover.The drivers and cabinets are in good shape and I have always liked this speaker which sports a 200mm Audax bextrene cone woofer and a 19mm KEF t27 dome tweeter, housed in a nicely crafted 42.5 liter walnut veneered mdf cabinet, all of which has held up amazingly well over the yearsI'll try to figure out how to post pictures to this site if anyone is kind enough to offer assistence.


Ag insider logo xs@2xbruce19
@imhififan            Your basic advice is sound... It would put you in the league.... 2.7, but if the original caps are electrolytic and they change to a quality film, the ESR of 3 capacitors alone can be a difference of up to another ohm or more. ESR is measured at different frequencies, so you would need to take that into consideration also. If the op was willing to do some experimenting, its worth a try, but to just replace all of that with a 3 mic cap would not be recommended.
op @bruce19 The 2.25 mfd, 1 mfd and .47mfd add to each other to combine values, the 10 mfd after those then decreases that value.
Correct me if I’m wrong,
2.25mfd, 1mfd parallel = 3.25mfd
3.25mdf, 10mfd in series = 2.453mfd
2.453mfd, 0.47mfd parallel = 2.923mfd
3mfd should be close enough, and I guess the 0.47mfd is not an electrolytic and has low ESR.

3.72, 10mfd parallel = 2.711

But beyond that,  I have to believe that they would not have gone to that expense to do it that way, a small film cap would be cost effective vs all of that mish mash.  My head says that overall you are correct, but I'd want to run real measurements and see why they ran the .47 the way they did vs just putting it straight in parallel with the other parts. When building I tend to verify everything in measurements.  
Great dialog timlub and imhififan. Your raising some of the questions I have been wondering about as a novice in this arena. For instance is the capacitor only important as a capacitor or do its other properties such as inductance and resistance enter into shaping the sound. I am appreciating more and more why people get degrees in this stuff:-)
Another question is what is the importance of the type of capacitor to the sound? Film, electrolytic, surface mount...these are terms I quickly ran into which brought me up short. Let me share a picture of the caps from this crossover.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GPHoB3gnQhPUqh-ccHUbzXtPjyAgKBoG/view?usp=sharing
I think these are all electrolytic except for the green one clearly labeled "filmcap" (Duh) and the little clear one which I suspect is called a surface mount capacitor because of its shape and size. So the question is does replacing a film cap or a surface mount with an electrolytic with the same capacitance make any difference with regard to it's function in the crossover.
You will note in the picture is the infamous pink mystery cap that prompted the start of this thread, which has since measured at 2.25mF. I'd be curious if there is anyone out there who can tell me that the color code matches my measurement. For your entertainment here is a picture of the notes that resulted as I tried to decipher the color code.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F6a-P8_wewgkkVqZXlnlbMiLfIwCBAfH/view?usp=sharing


@bruce19     The pink cap is a film cap,  most likely a mylar.  If you are doing the work yourself, I would recommend replacing the parts with Polypropylene caps throughout.    If they were mine,  I'd do a complete crossover rebuild based on listening to the parts individually and measurements.    Its hard to give much advice without a ton of information that we will not likely get on a thread like this.  Good luck,  
Tim