plinth for tts8000

this is sold, but it shows that the Sony Plinth has a layered construction similar to the vintage 7 layer JVC Plinths like mine.

https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649187453-original-huge-plinth-for-sony-tts8000-turntable/


The only reason I would consider replacing it is for looks. I love the look of mine, inconceivable to change it.

I modified a two arm plinth to fit a 3rd arm for Mono cartridge, see last photo here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133681838198

I can imagine modifying that Sony plinth for 2 or 3 arms: remove the lift handles, saw, drill, hack away hither and thither, then add a ridged layer on top to conceal splinters, bingo!

I just purchased a TT-101 unit with the same plinth you've pictured on eBay. I didn't buy it for the plinth but now that I have it I love this thing and will use it. 

Anthony, If you really want to do this right and I think that turntable is worth it, you mount it on a 1" thick aluminum plate which also mounts the tonearm and suspend/hang the plate with four springs, one at each corner. The trick is to rate the springs so that the plate bounces below 3 Hz. Look at the big SME turntables and the Sota Millenium table to get a basic idea. You can have the plate anodized any color you like. The springs can hang from hooks and each corner hidden by a tube which as an example could be PVC pipe veneered with wood or whatever. These could also serve as the feet of the table which could be leveled by raising and lowering the hooks. This would be a really fun project and you would come out of it with the worlds first properly isolated direct drive turntable!

Dear  @anthonya :   the @petg60 is good advise.

The TB2000 plinth is really good and specific for that TT , is very well damped and handled 2 tonearms:

https://www.audioscope.net/sony-tts8000-sony-tb2000-p-2239.html?products_id=2239

https://audio-heritage.jp/SONY-ESPRIT/etc/tb-2000.html

Maybe @lewm could helps about, he made it for his DP-80 a slate plinth and could be a good option too.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.

I actually made, or had made for me, slate-based plinths for the DP80, the Lenco idler, and the SP10 Mk3.  Before that, I also made a slate plinth for an SP10 Mk2, now sold along with the Mk2.  These projects were done one by one, not all at the same time. I purchased slate slabs cut to my specifications from a quarry in PA.  (Details available upon request.) I then identified a water-jet company in York, PA, who did all the cutting for me and helped with programming their machine to make the precision cuts required to accommodate this or that turntable chassis.  After that, I drilled the holes for tt chassis mounting bolts and tonearm mounting, myself.  (Except for the Mk3 plinth, I did not create conventional removable tonearm mounts; the tonearms mount directly on the top surface of the slate slabs that act as plinth.  This was to save effort and also for structural reasons.) All this required a lot of driving back and forth to PA from my home in MD, and a lot of work in my garage.  I must have been obsessed back then; I don't think I have the energy or the enthusiasm to take on such projects these days.

Slate seems to work very well as a plinth, but in the case of the SP10 Mk3, I also added a massive wood base made of solid Cherrywood.  It is my subjective impression that the wood base made the SP10 sound even more neutral than it already did using slate alone.  The SP10 Mk3 plinth in total weighs close to 100 lbs. So I believe there is some real benefit to the CLD approach.  In the case of the OP, I would suggest you consider putting the aluminum layer in between the two layers of different woods.  That might provide a better CLD effect than stacking two kinds of wood with alu underneath.  But really, who knows?  Just my guess.  One thing I do believe: MDF is never the best choice for a TT plinth.