Speaker Cables

Best cable I know of, regardless of cost, are the Silversmith Fidelium. And Fidelium bi wire. ($1200 8’ $275 bi wire “jumper”) Check out the reviews. They are not the usual “highly recommended”. They all come out and say exactly what I say.
Jeff at Silversmith tells me that he auditioned them in a million dollar system and they significantly better the existing cables. One reviewer bettered what he was using in his $600K system.
And the jumper is unique in that it connects both sets of terminals and has a binding post in the middle connecting to both sets.
They have a 30 day return policy.

@stereo5 
Your thoughts on the Canare piqued my interest. I noticed that your office setup uses JBL L100 and I have the 4319, which are a close cousin.

I get all the bass I need from them and would like to know if you got the sub after going with the Canare SCs or if you had it all along. That, and the fact that you've kept your ICs and PCs (which weren't cheap) tells me that expense wasn't a consideration. 

And, if I may ask, are the highs detailed, airy and as balanced as the rest of the spectrum? As you can see, I'm being somewhat of a glutton of food for thought before I start swapping things out.

All the best,
Nonoise

I use a pair of Inakustik LS-2404 biwires with my ProAc D48R and love the results.

I just saw a photo on some site where someone just used a solid silver length of wire in place of the jumper plates on the advice of some cable maker and loved the results.

The jumpers I removed were silver plated copper and using pure silver cables on both sets gave me the best sound. Maybe, just maybe, if I butcher one of my sets of Tempo Electric (14 GA or 16 GA) speaker wire and fashion some runs to connect the jumpers, I can get something similar in sound to what I now have using two sets of silver cables with their differing lengths and construction. I could easily live with that as the Cabledyne SC are quite exceptional on their own. It's just that bi wiring seems to be way to go and I haven't exhausted any better possibilities with jumpers. Back to square one.

All the best,
Nonoise

nonoise,

I had the Canare 4S11 cable before I bought the JBL’s. I was using them with GE Triton Ones. I bought the JBL L100 Classic speakers in mid December and purchased the SVS subwoofer in late February. My upstairs room is the size of the entire house, so it is a very big room. I have never gotten good bass in this room until I got the GE speakers. When I went with the JBL, the bass was a little lightweight.

First thing I did was add a 4 band EQ. I only use 2 of the bands, the 60hz which I boosted 2DB and the 2Khz which I reduced 1DB. That gave me a little more oomph from the JBL 12 inch woofers and took away the forwardness in the midrange.  Adding the sub was a lot of trial and error. I spent almost all of March futzing with the sub. The sub does NOT go through ther EQ, it is on the Mac’s secondary output so the eq isn’t in the circuit. I finally settled on cutting out the sub at 80hz @18DB per octave I have the sub level set where it does not call any attention to itself. If I turn it off, it is immediately apparent though.

The highs are now very airy and there is no more in your face midrange. This new set up cost about the same as the GE Triton Ones which I already sold. If I had to do it over again, I would have kept my GE Triton Ones. The Orange grills on the JBL’s makes up for it though. If you go with the Canare, it needs about 400 hours of break in and I am not kidding. Canare told me that and they were right. They also don’t know why the long break in, but after done, the sound is transformed.