Is it safe to use a higher amperage rating fuse?


Today was my 2nd attempt at trying out Synergistic Research fuses.  About 3 years ago when I had separates, including mono block amps, I bought a set of Blue fuses.  One component had a mfg spec of 250mA and the retailer said go with 315mA.  My two mono block amps each had a 6.3A.  When I installed them one of them blew upon powering up.  The retailer said we should go up to the next rating.  I was a bit frustrated at the experience and didn't feel comfortable putting higher values in my expensive components.  I felt these expensive fuses should be made to tighter tolerances than the cheap BUSS fuses I had been using.  If I remember correctly, that was the actual argument that the dealer told me.  They are mfg to tighter tolerances so a 5A SR fuse was almost dead-on 5A while a cheap fuse may actually be 5.3A or whatever.  This also was a bit confusing at the time so I sent them all back.

Okay...3 years have passed and now I have a single integrated amp which has a 5A fuse.  Much less to invest in the upgrade so I ordered an Orange.  It came in today...installed....pressed power...on and off went the amp.  DAMN!!  I contacted the retailer and SR on the same email.  This was a different dealer from 3 years ago.  The retailer said I should go to the next value up.  I said no and and they are waiting for the tracking info of my return shipment.

I did a quick search of my question before posting and saw a thread about the Red fuses and someone said they had to do the exact same thing.  Is everyone putting higher rated fuses in their gear that is worth thousands of dollars?  Is there no risk in this?  I admit that I don't know what could actually happen from that.  It seems that other things could burn up if a higher amperage fuse is in place.  I am compelled to simply stick to the mfg specs for something that I don't understand because I don't want to create problems just from a simple tweak.

Should I let them ship me a 6.3A or just be done with this?
dhite71
Of all the snake oil  BS out there in audiophile land, these so called audiophile fuses stink the worst. And as far as the rated fuse goes, NEVER, repeat NEVER replace the blown fuse with a higher rated fuse unless you just really don't care about your audio gear. Design engineers specify a fuse that will handle normal AND peak demand loads for a safe period without blowing. That fuse blew for a reason. It might, maybe, possibly,  have been a defective fuse. The chances of you getting two defective fuses in a row is miniscule, so if the replacement fuse blows, you have an equipment problem. If you like spending money, go ahead and put a higher amp fuse in. The repair shop will love you for it.
I would not put a higher value fuse in your gear try to find a vintage fuse supplier they were made a different and more robust way and they sound better too.
If fuses are not manufactured correctly they will trip when they’re not supposed to. It’s no surprise the boutique fuse salesmen do not provide time current curves or melting energy. Going up in fuse sizes increases the probability of excessive heat energy making its way through the power supply and other circuits. Not a good thing if you want your expensive equipment to last past the warranty period.
First we need to recognize that the amperage rating on the fuse is the amount of current that the fuse can handle. The higher the rating the more current it can handle. Also you want to run the component in question for a period of time with the manufacturers stock fuse at high volume levels at times. If nothing bad happens then I think the risk of replacing that stock fuse with a higher amp rating than the component spec ala @millercarbon, slo blo fuse is low. However, I would highly recommend and would consider it mandatory that the component be connected to a robust power conditioner or regenerator with a decent power cable and that it is well grounded.
Simple.

The fuse or circuit breaker in your house is to protect you and your house.

The fuse in your equipment is to protect its components. 

In both cases you should never use a higher value. In the house it is to stop drawing too much current through the wiring (i.e. the total number of power points in the circuit) or in the case of a circuit breaker to also monitor earth leakage; in your equipment it is to stop it drawing more current than the components are designed to handle.

Perhaps the manufacturer was conservative and you could go higher, but I suggest considering the cost of equipment it isn't worth the risk. In many ways it is like overclocking your computer. In both cases you are better off buying something else.