"...A23+ is fine for the 1.7i's but an A21 if you’re planning on getting the 3.7i's. Right?..."
No, just get the A21.
No, just get the A21.
Tubes for Magnepan’s.
I think next up on my acquisition list is a tube amplifier. I'm not looking for the be all end all, cause I don’t think there is a definitive "Best", so am looking for as good as I can get for $3-4k.
Because tubes drive speakers so much more efficiently than solid state I am only looking for 40-50 watts to drive my modded Maggie’s, 1.7i's. (Or what you have when you add a new crossover and planer tweeters to 1.7i's.) Maybe 2.7x? I haven’t settled on that yet. And I have some Zu Dirty Weekend's upgraded to the max coming in in 2 months to replace my KEF's.
Anyway, I haven’t had a tube device since my Halicrafter short wave radio, and reviews are not the same as advice from people that own something. There is a Rouge Audio dealer in my area, last I looked, (opps, they no longer carry them), so I may have to go to another market to hear something, or get a try before you buy from a manufacturer or dealer.
You folks have taught me a lot, and I think asking users is the right thing to do on this change in direction.
Thanks in advance.
Because tubes drive speakers so much more efficiently than solid state I am only looking for 40-50 watts to drive my modded Maggie’s, 1.7i's. (Or what you have when you add a new crossover and planer tweeters to 1.7i's.) Maybe 2.7x? I haven’t settled on that yet. And I have some Zu Dirty Weekend's upgraded to the max coming in in 2 months to replace my KEF's.
Anyway, I haven’t had a tube device since my Halicrafter short wave radio, and reviews are not the same as advice from people that own something. There is a Rouge Audio dealer in my area, last I looked, (opps, they no longer carry them), so I may have to go to another market to hear something, or get a try before you buy from a manufacturer or dealer.
You folks have taught me a lot, and I think asking users is the right thing to do on this change in direction.
Thanks in advance.
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- 104 posts total
This is my #1 amp. Benchmark AHB 2. It comfortably can handle 90- 95db on it’s own with my 1.7i’s, depending on the material. It totally rocks with the KEF’s, and does very well with the bass panels, it’s the tweeters that kill it. It’s easy to see how two might sound since it is easy to bridge into one side. 500+ watts into 4ohms bridged.Specs below. I bought a A23 yesterday online, store demo local, but when I called and asked when I could pick it up they told me they didn’t have one. "!?" Wtf? Thanks House of Stereo! I’ve done better ordering online than with my brick and mortar... I thought I’d give them another try since it looks like the previous owner is out of the picture, but they screwed me again. So far the only thing I’ve bought there that wasn’t a train wreck were my KEF’s. Arcam? Lemon. They passed on sending back for service, even after Arcam was bought by that Canadian company and promised to resolve past QC issues for customers. Velodyne sub cause they never did their homework and didn’t know REL existed? Then started carrying them within a year and didn’t want to do a trade? Magnepan 1.7i? Inductor wired inline to all three elements so there was no treble? See above for customer service after the sale... I was going to try and run my De’WooferMagnepan panels with the A23 to judge it’s output compared to my AHB 2, but obviously would have tried it in my system. If the Parasound was noticeably more engaging, sort of equal to the AHB2 power wise, then I’d think about an A21. If anyone knows a way to get a hold of one for demoing, let me know. AHB2 specs: CONTINUOUS AVERAGE OUTPUT POWER < 0.0003 % THD+N at full rated power, 20 Hz to 20 kHz
All speakers have variations in input impedance. Select loads based on nominal impedances not minimum impedances. The AHB2 is stable into all loads. The AHB2 is conservatively rated at an output level where THD+N is < 0.0003 % instead of the more typical 1% THD+N. Power at 1% THD will be higher. OUTPUT VOLTAGE INTO VARIOUS LOAD IMPEDANCES < 0.0003 % THD+N at the following output voltages and load impedances, 20 Hz to 20 kHz
Use dBV to calculate the peak SPL from your speaker/amplifier combination. Use the following formula: Amplifier output voltage in dBV + speaker sensitivity at 2.83V - 9 dB. Example: (29.03 dBV at 8 Ohms) + (90 dB SPL @ 2.83V 1m) - 9 dB = 110 dB SPL at 1 meter SNR & DYNAMIC RANGE Rated output relative to output noise, inputs shorted
NOISE VOLTAGE Output noise voltage, A-weighted, inputs shorted
Use dBV to calculate the SPL of the noise produced by your speaker/amplifier combination. Use the following formula: Amplifier output noise voltage in dBV + speaker sensitivity at 2.83V - 9 dB. Example: Mono mode driving very high efficiency speakers: (-100 dBV) + (104 dB SPL @ 2.83V 1m) - 9 dB = -5 dB SPL at 1 meter. This means that the system noise will be 5 dB below the threshold of hearing when driving speakers with a very high 104 dB efficiency. NOISE RELATIVE TO 2.83 VRMS Output noise relative to 2.83 Vrms, A-weighted, inputs shorted
THD+N 1 kHz, 80 kHz LPF, at full rated output into any rated load
THD 1 kHz, 20 kHz LPF, at full rated output into any rated load
CROSSTALK
FREQUENCY RESPONSE
DAMPING FACTOR
MAXIMUM AUDIO OUTPUT CURRENT
INPUT SENSITIVITY
INPUT IMPEDANCE
INPUT CMRR
TRIGGER I/O
PROTECTION CIRCUITS
DIMENSIONS NON-RACK-MOUNT VERSION:
RACK-MOUNT VERSION:
WEIGHT
AC INPUT
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@secretguy Why the tweeter array? The tweeter on the 1.7i is serviceable at best. Since they don’t make the 2. series anymore with the ribbon tweeter, and I have good subs, so don’t need the additional bass of the 3.7i panel, why spend $4k more? When it comes right down to it, the 1.7i might be the best midrange driver on the planet. 😉 These tweeters take it to a whole nother level, and don’t break the bank like Rhaal ribbons or Mundorf AMT's would. https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-PT5010-8-10-Planar-Mid-Tweeter-8-Ohm-272-130 |
- 104 posts total