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Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
@divertiti  - WRT:  I only have 18ga unocc, do you think the shield/return needs to be thicker like 16ga?

Unless you are specifically performing  comparisons of wire you would not notice any difference there "might" be. Any difference would be miniscule

UP-OCC wire is amazing stuff, so there would be very little if any difference between 16 gauge and 18 gauge when used for the neutral

Use the 18 gauge - it will sound fantastic !

Regards - Steve
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
@in_shore -
WRT...’
A question to anyone , has anyone tried Furutechs F1-50s NCF ends on their helix power cords ?

I would have to guess that by the lack of responses to your question, nobody has "invested" in the Furutech connectors.

I have tried a few brands of plugs and the silver plated copper from Sonar Quest provided the best sound on my system and to my ears.

The brands I have tried in order of preference...
  1. Sonarquest Silver plated Copper
  2. Vanguard Silver plated Copper - a very close second to Sonar Quest
  3. Oyaide Gold plated deoxidized Phosphorus Bronze
  4. Marinco brass
  5. Wattgate brass

Furutech products are manufactured to the highest standards for extreme applications and they price them accordingly, but for Audio applications, I consider many of their products as "overbuilt" - i.e. it’s a bit like using a sledgehammer to drive in a thumb tack

But if expense is no object - go for it :-)

Hope that helps - Steve
pindac's avatar
pindac
2,768 posts
 
As an update to my search for Chassis Mount 3 Pin Female XLR Connectors.
I have found a part with a PC OCC a (Alpha) as the main pin.
It is a Furutech FT-786F, this type of part gives added confidence to the route I am taking, it is not too expensive either, and only two are required to commence the new set up.

I have extended my search further to discover PC CCC Wire that miight prove useful in the Double Helix Power Cord Design.

Acrolink do a Speaker Cable.
I have done a few searches over the past week and have seen used cable for sale at a not too extorionate asking price.
Shipping and Import will be required on most I have seen if exporting to the UK.
The Wire is available in 10 AWG and 14 AWG.  


pindac's avatar
pindac
2,768 posts
 
Correction to my Last Post
The Acrolink Wire is D.U.C.C  
From  my most recent use of D.U.C.C used both on a Full Solid State System and now my own Full Valve System.
D.U.C.C Wire has tremendous capabilities at separating a singer and instrument and exgtending a Soundstage.
Between CDT and DAC the old used cable is completely relegated.
Between SUT and Phonstage the whole presentation becomes much more real and the sense of honesty has been further reiterated. 
divertiti
225 posts
 
@williewonka Thanks Steve. I made a Spdif today using 2x18ga Neotech UPOCC (stock insulation) and 16ga mil-spec as neutral (will switch out when 16ga UPOCC arrives). I made it to be 1.27m long and it performs fantastically. So much so that it's not giving much ground to a Nordost Valhalla 2 spdif after A/B. Now on all my helix cables, there is an expansiveness to the sound at the expense of tonal density. That's the last area that I think the Nordost cable does better. I suspect the slightly looser density is due to the milspec wire so will report back when I switch out the neutral.

One thing I'm unclear on is how to coil the 16ga neutral if it is being created using the air tube method? If the bare wire is free floating inside the tube, how do you coil it with the drill?
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