testing a crossover

The mid xover is a bandpass network and tweeter is high pass network which means if you measure the resistance, it should read "infinite resistance" or something very high.  It's interesting that both left and right channel all read 0ohm.

As for the woofer, it is a low pass network so it makes sense if you measure about 7ohm which is probably resistance of the driver voice coil and the inductor.

Hi Guys,sorry for the late reply, my wife doesn't see my urgency about this,so im going with the flow!!,please bear with me.
So,i now sat here with one of the crossovers multi meter in hand and i will try answer al the questions
DC offset,taken at speaker cable end ,speaker removed
repaired amp mid/high left chan 0.000 right chan 0.001v {DC]
bass amp                     Left chan 0.006 Right chan 0.002 {DC]
on xo IP pos and IP neg have good solder joint{tested good}
resistance between IP POS And IP neg   -OL ,
Multi meter checks out good,i have two of them ,both reading close enough.
No visabe shorts on board or speaker terminal board
mid speaker cable going to driver,dead short.no driver connected
tweeter spaker cable going to driver ,dead short, no driver connected
bass cable going to driver. OL,   no driver connected
ALL 3 OF THESE TESTS WERE ALSO TAKEN FOR XO PCB END
internal speaker cable from input to xo,No shorts

Test for shorts done at speaker cable imput {4 terminals}for bi-wire and Bi amp,inputs at the back of speaker boxes,   NO shorts 
to test resistors do i need to remove one side from pcb xo,ive just tested one [5w2R2J] and it showing a short,still fully soldered ??.
on the comments about capacitor placing on top of resistors etc,i do see what you mean,it was my first time replacing the caps on an xo and the leads where short,but i can remove the all and try again,its just that these caps are a lot bigger than was what installed at factory,sorry for my rubbish placement.
so all in ,i see no physical short, wires touching, all soldering has been tested for contin.all good,no dry joints,no cable fraying,no cable rub throughs,from vibration,it seem to me listening to you guys i maybe need to remove all components and test them,would i be wright in that assumption 
,hope the wife doesnt mind me spending the next day or two doing this !!!,shes wanting a  garage built !!!.
Anyway guys,i hope ive answered all you questions,i sure do appreciated you all taking the time out to help me with this,.
Kind regards
Mark
PS,im still open to tri-amping if you think it might be a better solution ,in the end,fiesta,but would be great to find the problem first,Anyway
cheers guys

resistance between IP POS And IP neg  -OL

Okay, so that checks out... as long as when you put the whole lot back together you still get open circuit at DC across the HF/Mid posts all is as it should be and there's no DC load on your amp.

mid speaker cable going to driver,dead short.no driver connected

Actually looking again you should be getting around 2.2Ω across the Mid driver outputs. I'd look at the photos again, but they're not there any more. The area to inspect is the bottom half of the board when orientated like the schematic.

Okay, its been a rough couple days. I just got done drawing the schematic and looking at the words and measurements again. Just one note, do all measurement in the resistance mode, not in the diode mode as the diode mode really doesn't tell us anything. You don't need to disconnect one end of the resistors to check each resistor. So with no drivers attached, between the midrange terminals on the crossover board, you get close to 2.2 ohms, but it's not a dead short correct? For the tweeter terminals, you get close to 0 ohms, but not a dead short correct? At the mid/hi amp inputs, you get essentially OL after holding the probes on the terminals for few seconds, correct? What happens when you reverse the leads on the mid/hi amp terminals? Does the meter go to (-) xxx.x ohms then to (+) xxx.x ohms before going to OL? This is a dumb question, but just so I understand everything. When you use only one amplifier to power the speaker in the full range (bi-WIRE) mode, the (+) terminals of the inputs are connected together. And separately, the (-) terminals of the inputs are connected together, correct? The photos are gone, but don't think we need it again. From your DC voltage measurements at the amps, they look healthy. Please answer all of my questions in order, so we don't get confused, thanks.