Which subwoofer?


I have a small room (10’x14’) and am wondering if a subwoofer would help. If so, which one?

I have Martin Logan electrostatic speakers with  8” powered 200 watt woofers and 8” passive radiators.  The bass is articulate, but not very deep. I am wondering if I could get more bass volume and depth without loosing detail with an additional subwoofer?
I have tried an 8” Velodyne, but could never integrate it with the Martin Logans so I sold it. 

The Martin Logans are powered by a 200 watt McIntosh receiver. 
Any thoughts?


kenrus
+1 to @audiorusty on comments about JL Audio "e" series (I have an e110--superb sub for limited space) and separate crossover.

My previous sub, though wonderful sounding (SVS SB-1000) has a rather non-transparent, poor-sounding low-pass output crossover. Instead I got a very good quality Marchand electronic crossover and no longer relied on the sub's crossover. Big improvement, plus the fact is relatively few subs even have a low pass output (RCA pair), much less a good sounding one.

As it happens, my e110 is one such sub. But I found it more convenient to continue using the external crossover than the JLA's crossover output, due to a pesky ground loop.

If you don't happen to have an integrated or receiver w/quality filtered outputs for sub + mains, an external crossover is the way to go. 
@lewinskih01: Your question has me confused. After stating "So he's using F12's up to 40Hz", you then ask "Do you happen to know how high he crosses over to the F12G's?" Aren't those the same? Or am I not seeing what you're asking?

You're not differentiating between F12 and F12G, are you? The "G" designation is used in reference to GR Research, the only difference between the two models being the use of a paper cone woofer in the F12G, an aluminum in the F12. Danny prefers paper cone woofers, Rythmik's Brian Ding metal.

Danny uses the OB sub from whatever frequency is required by the loudspeaker it is used with (up to 300Hz), down to as low as it will play, which is into the teens (below 20Hz). In other words, with a low-pass filter on the sub but no high pass. When he adds a pair of F12's, he still uses the OB sub full range, without rolling off the bottom end to "make room" for the F12's.

Le me reiterate that the 40Hz figure I mentioned is the frequency I believe Danny uses the F12 up to when coupled with the OB. I may be mistaken, it could be somewhat higher, though certainly not above 80Hz.  
Perhaps a bit messier than integrated, I run two Scaena 18" subs with a pair of Crown 1502 amps and an old Maxdrive 3.4 pc. As was noted eariler, it is the DSP that is the magic sauce though.
My listening room is fairly large (17X32) and they fill the low end perfectly. 
@bdp24 

Thanks again. You are right I was misunderstanding what the models implied. I totally get the F12 since mine are F12-like in heavy DIY sealed boxes. I thought the F12G were paper cone and open baffle (like Danny's designs), but I see on Rythmik's site they are sealed. So let me rephrase and provide perspective for what I was saying:

I though he ran F12 up to 40Hz, xo to OB subs (his Kit 4 or 5) from 40 to say 180Hz, and then xo to another driver. I guess my thinking was biased by the way I set up my system. And I know another user who runs multichannel stereo and used F12s (to 50Hz) in such a fashion with F8s above (frequency-wise) to 175Hz and JBL M2 above, so I though Danny was doing this but on OBs. 

I totally understand why he does it the way you describe it too: below 40Hz he gets 4 sources playing (F12s and OBs) so a DBA. Worth noting Earl Geddes argues for 3 or 4 subs and says the 3rd and 4th subs don't need to be as powerful, which in Danny's case would be the OBs below 40Hz. Then Danny gets OB bass with servos from 40Hz to whatever he xo, and let a regular driver take it from there. Makes a lot of sense and would demand a redesign of my system because those F12Gs would replace my dipole 18" but would not reach as high and the smaller surface (2x12" vs 1x18") I guess would be perceivable. In my prior iteration I had 2x10" in the midbass and the move to 1x18" was a significant step up in impact of bass while also having dipole texture (of course an 18" in a box would have more impact than it in dipole). Maybe I need the 3x12" GR Research :-)

Good food for thought!

BTW: do you place your OB subs close to the side walls? In my case I would need to, maybe 4 or 8" from the side walls in the front corners, 2 or 3 feet away from front wall...not ideal distance to front wall, but space constraints. I wonder if being close to the side walls would further detract from them.