Bi Wiring Speakers from Luxman L-509X

Lots of great input which I expected.

To answer one comment above, the primary reason for this question at all is cost. Two full pairs of cables is more expensive than one. At this expense I don’t want to get down the road and find it was not a good fit.

The plan is to get two sets with locking banana connectors. If I need to run them off of one set of speaker outputs on the amp then I would have to consider one set with bananas and one set with spades to allow both sets to connect to the same binding posts.

The speakers are rated at 4ohms. This presumes the woofer runs at 8 ohms and the mid/tweets run at 8 ohms to provide a combined 4 ohm load. Is this correct math?

So if the four 8 ohm driver circuits are connected to the two pairs of speaker outputs am I within the 8-16ohm limits when all four speaker terminals are connected?This, and Elliot’s comment above, is what I’m trying to sort out.

I believe I’m OK. Is this right?

this amp, existing 4 ohm nominal speakers, you are best with using one set of speaker outputs. single cable, or as you say, two pairs of cables that can fit together on the same terminals.

two pairs of speakers: neither can be below 8 ohm 'nominal'. little dips, ok, lot's of near 4 ohm, no.

OP your math is correct..

IF you have dual binding post at the speaker, bi wiring is a second pair of cables from the same common output post on your power amp..

If you have a single set of binding post at the speaker, your doubling the run, but not bi wiring. Does it make a difference, ONLY if the single  run cannot carry the load correctly.. Double the run or go to a larger size construct..

I've ran two different types of cables to the same binding post. Silver ribbon and OCC copper weave.. Nice combo.. Different story..:-)

Regards

The low and high pass filters means the multiple drivers are not not seen in parallel by the amplifier. They are seen as separate entities.

For a better view to understand this, please see my post here:

https://speakermakersjourney.blogspot.com/2016/12/crossover-basics-impedance.html

My original statement, that using the A+B outputs to bi-wire a speaker is equivalent to using just A or B stands. The amplifier won’t know the difference and hopefully you’ll see the explanation in the post.

Using simple, DC analysis for equivalent resistances is not appropriate in this case. It would work (with a lot of slop) with parallel drivers of the same type in the same section, like having 2 woofers for instance.

@Erik_squires  +1

I hope oldhvymec had read the link @Erik_squires provides for better understanding how a parallel crossover works.

I understand what Erik is talking about, that is impedance curves at the driver, it has nothing to do with load to the amplifier. The article is talking about how to CORRECT with a crossover design.

Proper XO point and knowing the driver by doing your own measurement with software/hardware.

https://www.parts-express.com/OmniMic-V2-and-DATS-V3-Dayton-Audio-Speaker-Measurement-Bundle-390-809.

I use this one and a few freebies, along with an active XO to actually test my XO, STUFF.

The static load doesn’t change (within a limit) of the frequency they respond to.. Ex: @ 8 ohms

Think of it like this. You have 6 drivers in a line vertical, you remove one, and put a resistor that matches the static reading of the driver in its place.

Will the resistance change at the speaker binding post? NO the curve will though, but the amp won’t know it.. it just sees a requirement and meets it.. As that driver is used throughout it’s notched out range phase angles can SWAP but the resistance remain the same..

Acoustic vs electrical, it's not the same thing. People mix them up.. I'm talkin before it leaves the box not after, there is a difference..

There is a lower limit there is an upper limit, but the actual resistance stays within that notch. IF the XO and drivers are wired and crossed correctly and care is taken to keep the load close to the static load, you’ve built a good crossover..

I’ve seen and fixed plenty that DIP to less than one ohm..

Kappa 8 or 9.0. Pure amp killers.. Not when I’m done.. 10 degree drop in amp temperature, too.

Regards