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Step by Step How to Use a Digital Multimeter / Oscilloscope for Azimuth Adjustments

So I did the usual azimuth setup for a VPI using the rod on top of the tonearm groove (method of setting that is included with VPI turntables from factory) on my VPI Classic 3.   I also bought one of those clear blocks on Amazon with the lines so you can get it as flat as you can visually.   It does sound good just doing this but I wanted to go next level and see if I could do it electronically even better.    I have read you can use a digital multimeter (DMM) or oscilloscope to do the adjustments.   I found on Amazon a Hantek 2D42 that has both features and I bought the BNC to RCA connectors for it so I can interface it with my turntable or alternatively the preamp output on my Sutherland 20/20 for boosted signals.
That all being said, how do I use this for setting the azimuth?   I have read you can use either device (DMM or Scope) to do this adjustment but it seems like the directions are pretty sketchy on how to do it.
I looked into buying the Adjust + software but as of August 2021 it isn't available to buy any longer so that isnt an option.
Anyone know how I can use this Hantek to do the testing and adjustments?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
newguru
perkri
909 posts
 
Read this.

https://www.analogplanet.com/content/crazy-little-thing-called-azimuth-part-2

Pretty straight forward. There is a bit of math involved, some measuring and the conversion of numbers from a chart.

Works like a charm.

You will need a test record with a left/right dedicated channel of a 1k tone.

If you do this, you will get the azimuth set perfectly.
bikerbw
108 posts
 
On YouTube on the VPI channel, Harry did a minor rant ("Chat with Mat & Harry EP-2-4-6-21") complaining about cartridges that glue their styli onto the cantilever as opposed to drilling a hole and inserting the stylus, ensuring that the stylus is at a 90 degree angle to the cantilever.  According to him, cheap/expensive cartridge, doesn't matter - they're usually always slightly askew forward/backwards/sideways by some amount if they're glued.  Kinda funny since they make a big deal about laying that rod in the slot on top of their head shells for setup. The Analog Planet procedure will get you there kinda, as you might find the values bounce around a little so you have to make a judgement call; he also suggests building a DIY box (see link above).  Probably easier is the Fozgometer but they're hard to get at this point in time, and there's times where the meter bottoms/tops out and is less useful.  I've seen mention of using an oscilloscope (and again, Analog Planet alludes to this way) but you have to learn to read/operate one if you don't know how - might be easy, don't know.
bikerbw
108 posts
 
---and the Analogmagik kit is $750.
mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,570 posts
 
@lewm , do you sometimes feel as if you are talking to yourself?
You need to get you one of those Analog Magik thingies, $850. Every degree counts:-)
mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,570 posts
 
bikerbw, Harry is perhaps the last person you should be taking advice from. He is obviously not familiar with mounting jigs, robots and RF activated adhesives. The cartridge manufacturers to not manufacture their stylus assemblies. They buy them from a limited number of suppliers. They do orient the cantilevers in the motor assembly and are responsible for the final orientation. This is done with a grid under magnification. My experience is obviously with a limited number of cartridges but I do examine all my cartridges under magnification when they are new and for the last 20 years all of them have been on the money. The glue technique is being used because cantilevers have gotten thinner and the materials are difficult to drill making glue a better choice than holes. It also puts less mass at the end of the cantilever for better tracking. The only downside is that on rare occasion a stylus goes MIA.
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