Rel Does Not Recomment Isolation Stands

@jimcrane

I have been running Rel’s for 15-20 yrs. They sound great and integrate extremely well. No worries about performance...unless you isolate them. I wouldn't give up on them

The secret is to keep the crossover point as low as possible. Volume should be just enough to blend with the mains. They make the mains sound even better.

Their advice is about the default, best. I don't know about springs.

But what I do know is that there can be cases when there are room modes which are located between ceiling and floor, and lifting a sub can address that. That would be an exception that I bet REL could accept.

From my own experience REL is in the right here. 

SVS, JL and the RELs S812 (I think) it's not ported are pretty serious subs..

I still believe more is better and medium excursion is better if you have enough drivers.. It's about moving air. HOW you do it, makes a big difference..

In the 80-90s I ran 4 Tall Boys. They were a 12", 15" and 15" passive in a 6cf Tall box. 1000 watt Daytons is what Brian recommended at the time. The passives were tuned to your room, amps and speakers with pinching putty from the passive to adjust (Q) uality. Thumb nail at a time.. Very accurate way to tune and blend a bass system.

OB Servo subs, both sides of the driver are loading and onloading the room, your ears act different.. I use 6 12" OB high excursion drivers... they work both ways not one.. Decoupling those cabinets made a heck of a difference. They are made to stack too. I ordered 2 more double 12", we'll see.

Regards

The think the real issue is what type of floor is present in your listening room, I have a dedicated room with wool carpet over concrete and I can see no reason in this case to do anything other than drain the energy by coupling.