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Room Ceiling Height for 2 channel listening - is taller always better?

I am planning a custom 2 channel listening room. Current dimensions are 17’W x 23’L x 16’H with a symmetrically sloping ceiling. No windows. The room will be accommodating Paradigm Persona 9H speakers, but I’d like it to be flexible enough to be well suited for most other options (i.e. big horn speakers, tall Wilsons, etc)

Is 16 feet too tall? Is that violating a "golden rule" room ratio (I already know it is, but is that a big problem)? Bigger is generally better, but is a taller ceiling always better? Is this too much volume for a 2 channel listening room, even with large loudspeakers? I do plan on adding acoustic treatment throughout the room to handle reverb & reflections.

Other thoughts: I am planning on 2x6 studs and standard insulation+luan+5/8" drywall. I know that 3/4" plywood is considered better sounding at only 8x the cost of drywall. I know some would advocate for 2x8 or 2x10 or 2x12 studs, but that pretty much requires using expensive insulation (at least spray foam) or some fancy carbon diaphragmatic helmholtz solution that might cost as much or more as this room :) I know that structural rigidity is important to reduce resonances. I’m also not a billionaire and am trying to balance practicality with performance.

Flooring details: planning on sound deadening underlayment, carpet, and a throw rug on top. Should I do hardwood with a throw rug on top? If I do carpet, what acoustical carpet underlayment is recommended?

128x128exsedol88
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 

ronboco what is mass loaded vinyl?

Regards

ronboco
859 posts
 

@oldhvymec 

its basically a heavy rubber mat that goes between the drywall layers to help with soundproofing. It’s about 1/8 inch thick. 

oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 

Thanks, all this newfangled stuff.. I like it..

Time to feed the chickens..

Regards

terry9
2,354 posts
 

@dodgealum

Glue and screw. No nails. Elastomeric glue - it never quite dries, always flexes, but very slightly. Chemlink makes good ones - I used 2 cartons of BuildSecure and 12 cartons of M1, IIRC.

Quietrock 545. I backed mine with 3/4" Baltic birch on the back and front walls. Another thing - ventilation. Although Chemlink stuff is really safe, your cabinetmaker might not be as careful, and the adhesives and finishes can off-gas for years. It took a year of airing out, for my room to be habitable with the windows closed. And paint - low VOC all the way, no other way. For a small room, consider high gloss paint - makes the room seem larger.

If you get really anal-retentive, you can connect and ground all the steel in all the Quietrock 545. Bare tinned 20 AWG is fine, you don’t expect much current.

Your dimensions may be critical. I built my whole room to 1/8" tolerances and results are spectacular. Do build in your bookshelves and record shelves. Don’t build in any significant cavities for a big turntable or whatever. I did, and it’s a mistake. Fortunately, a recoverable mistake.

And try to get time off to work with your contractor. Mine was a prince - whatever I wanted, he did. And you’d be amazed at what comes up when you’re putting up plywood.

Access. Conduit for all electrical. If you will ever have an air bearing turntable, now’s the time to put in conduit. If you will ever have a central power supply, now’s the time to put in conduit. Conduit, conduit, conduit.

Lighting. Some LED based lights produce EM interference. Detect and avoid. Better, use halogen or incandescent.

Good luck!

terry9
2,354 posts
 

@ronboco 

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