Modding/tweaking my system


Hi all

I thought I would start this thread almost like a diary.

After living with my system for 12 years, purchased 2nd hand, i find myself wanting to see if i can improve on the sound.

I tried modding a Marantz cd67 player years ago with some success then went too far and wrecked it.

The system is 

Rotel RCD02 cd

Cambridge Audio Dacmagic

RC03pre amp

2 RB03 power amps running as mono blocks

PBC FB1

The first thing I wanted to do was tame the overly bright high end by modding the PMCs to + after years of searching I finally found the crossover layout bought the parts and set about the mods.

1st impressions are the highs are tamed however I have 1 speaker that "sounds" louder than the other, more on that later.

I bought the Dacmagic el-cheapo without the box or instructions. I recently downloaded the instructions and realised the Spdif requires the use of a 75ohm digital cable, I've been using a standard RCA all these years.

The room, HiFi and speaker placement are far from optimal but it is was it is and cannot be changed.

I noted I can feel the CD chassis vibrating with music at reasonable levels so that needs a change.

The overall voicing of the system I would describe as slightly forward with a muddy mid range.

It's the highs and mids I'm looking to resolve.

 

notdeadyet

Thanks for the replies guys

The room/life simply won't allow any other positioning.

What you can't see is most of the right side opens into the kitchen over a breakfast bar!

Yes I have to deal with the fridge dishwasher etc.

I've shifted the speakers wider in an attempt to get a wider ss, they've gone backwards and forwards many times over the years. Presently I'm trying the tight right tight back layout seen.

I simply cannot decide the best fit, close as they are seems to allow less toe in helping to open the sound.

Think i may remove the spikes and have a long positioning session, long overdue.

i sit far end of the room behind are patio doors. I have heavy curtains to cut rear reflected sound.

I'm considering an DIY rack with closed off sides and back for transport, dac and pre open back for amps.

The next stage I've been considering is a re-clock, op-amps and some recapping.I want to see how far I can get before open heart surgery.

@millercarbon I'll have a peek at the products mentioned ty

Once everyone has gone to bed I'll play with the sorb balls lol

 

@millercarbon ty ty ty

Your comment on toe in reminded me of an article where a guy auditioned the FB1s removing a much larger set of PMCs.

The PMC engineer when positioning them had them closer together but with much more toe in than the reference set up.

I've just shifted a bit away from the wall then toed in more than usual and just wow.

Playing my reference back end of the wall I couldn't stop grinning

Things have snapped into position, details never heard before (unless I'm imagining it) bass tighter but remains the same weight. The crashy symbols have shifted backwards allowing more delicate percussion to come to the fore.

Yes its still bright but as you referred to its what I've got.

Rotel kit Fb1s both known as a bright presentation

Now its time to play with those balls

Nobsound springs will allow you to play with loading to tweak the top end down a bit. This will warm up the bass at the same time. Mass loading, adding mass to some of the lighter components like a DAC, is another way of improving bottom end while smoothing out the top. This is all trial and error so can take a fair bit of time and usually no one thing is a silver bullet, but it does add up and you can wind up with a lot better sound in the end.

Thanks millercarbon

The tape you suggested is a bit eye watering! 

Trial and error is the last thing I need, £££s

The Nobsound alone for all components would be £150!

I can re-clock, swap out op-amps and recap for about that price

Do you believe you can over-damp and end up dulling the sound?

Installed the sorbothane hemispheres but had to wind down the volume as even when low the bass can be heard in every room. Can't say if there was a difference other than the a more forward presentation and the bass dropped but that's likely down to the volume at a whisper.

I'll play around with adding toe-in and the bally-bits tomorrow if I find the time.

 

 

 

All good advice thus far. You're going to learn a lot about different damping properties with some of these experiments. Far too many materials over damp, using damping is not the way to tame brightness, Brightness is symptom of something wrong upstream, usually inherent to components and/or parts within components. Need to fix this prior to damping experiments.

 

You're ideas about modding cd player are more on right track. Re-clocking may be problematic, likely present clock circuit won't support clock upgrade. Op amp upgrade may be beneficial, research your op amps, make sure its compatible op amp. Coupling caps good place to start. Discrete voltage regulators can be another nice upgrade. Keep in mind if you're novice, may damage cd player beyond repair if you make mistakes.

 

Not sure you're in position for upgrades in equipment, but that would be of greater benefit than mods. However, if you're intent on mods and learning what they can offer, you're on right track.