Dedicated Circuits - Subpanel importance?


My system is no more. Sold everything. Starting from scratch. Thanks to you and seven months of experience I am doing the following, which is taking care of the number one component, the room:

  1. Treating. The full GIK order in October is starting to arrive.
  2. Running one or more dedicated circuits.

I am addressing #2 in this post. There are extensive discussions here and one can spend hours if not days trying to wring-out the critical details needed for a DIY solution. I have spent hours and there a few things I need to confirm before I proceed because I was unable to find definitive answers.

I am doing this myself. I do not want or need lectures on only having a licensed electrician do this work. I have been doing my own electrical work for many years and am very comfortable doing so.

  1. Does a subpanel help? Is it required? Subpanels are typically supplied from a breaker off of the main panel's bus, so I'm guessing there is no advantage in terms of SQ? Perhaps if I can independently ground the subpanel it might make a difference?
  2. Opening up my walls is not an option, so I need to use conduit. This may restrict the number of lines if the wire should not share the same conduit? If I am restricted to Romex 8 or 10,2 versus metal-clad, is it okay for two runs to occupy the same conduit?
  3. How much better is metal-clad? Is it required vs Romex? Will metal conduit accomplish the same result with Romex?

Answers to these questions will complete my plans and I will go forward at speed. Hopefully this discussion helps others as well even if it's to know what to have their electrician setup for them.

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

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So many words, so much misinformation🤔

  • Romex offers very good magnetic field suppression
  • Twisted wire offers very good noise immunity
  • Loose wires in conduit is poor and essentially a radiating transformer
  • No current should flow in the ground and if it does there is a problem
  • Earth Safety must only tie at a single point unless an engineered solution is installed
  • A single over capable current circuit is better than two as two will contaminate each other unless pains are taken to ensure otherwise
  • Peak current is far below what will trip a 20A breaker for most home systems
  • Breakers will run @ 100% forever, 150% of trip value for a long time and close to 1000% for about a second
  • A soft start system control can mitigate power on surge. Ditto sequenced power on.
  • Musical peaks are not in phase with the line
  • Peak current at full breaker rating drops less than 0.2dB across the AC line over about 50 feet
  • If you install two circuits be certain they are on the SAME Phase and on the opposite phase to the noisy stuff. You may need to rearrange the panel, depending on the existing layout. High current things like stoves and dryers are low noise while aircon is higher. Dimmers can play havoc.
  • Single breakers opposite one another in a panel are one the same phase. Single breakers on the same side and below one another are the opposite phase.
  • IF you are capable, significant system wide noise reduction can be effected by paying attention to the line phase in the electronics
  • Ensure the Line, Neutral and Earth Safety connections are pristine all the way to the meter

See Microsoft PowerPoint - Indy AES 2012 Seminar w-Notes v1-0.ppt (wordpress.com)

I viewed a video of someone wanting "dedicated" circuits installed into his listening room as you are.  I felt a sense that the electrician that was doing the actual work understood the Audiophile's direction and wants.  Find that such electrician.

Great feedback as I had hoped! I will be PM'img a few of you, hopefully soon. One electrician wanted $100 just to give an estimate. Nope. The other two were in the same ballpark, which is like fives times the cost of materials alone. They were in sync as well with what they would do, which is run a line to s small subpanel in the listening room with x number of lines (equal in-phase) to x outlets. The breaker for the subpanel would be at the top of the stack in the main panel, with other breakers moved to the other bus if they have noisy end points like dimmer switches, appliances, etc. i now really want to do this myself because there is nothing complicated about it. Going to take the week to think it through. Thanks again.

No need for a sub panel. All you need to do is use a piggy back breaker in the existing panel, if you happen to be short on space. If enough room, then add a conventional 20 amp breaker and run 12/2 romex to your receptacle of choice. I chose Audioquest’s Edison receptacle. I believe in synergy, and so I also run a AQ Niagara 1200 into that receptacle along with AQ power cords. The sub panel will not make any difference In sound quality. If your hifi is on a seperate circuit as above, you are not going to get noise from an appliance on a seperate circuit. I don’t care what anyone else tells you here, it’s bull. My breaker for my hifi sits right next to a breaker that controls a fridge, no noise on the hifi circuit. You are making it way more complicated and expensive than it has to be. All you need is a 20 amp breaker that matches what you already have in the main panel, and a high quality hospital grade 20 amp receptacle, be it a home depot or Lowes product or an audiophile receptacle such as Audioquest, Furatech, or oyaide. Lastly, a run of 12/2 yellow romex...no need to run 10 gauge...too stiff and hard to work with. You want to get real fancy, add a RFI/EMF receptacle cover plate by Furatech.

Use Romex cable, unless you have a rat problem, then use metal Clad or conduit. This project is quite simple and not expensive. Black to breaker screw, white to neutral buss bar,  ground to ground bus bar. Heck, I did it with the power on., not recommended. It helps that I took electricity in Vocational school. 😁

@lowrider57 Yes and the stupid thing is I have a soft start circuit board that I bought (and tested) off of eBay which is residing inside an incomplete Amplifier project that I’m working on. I’m sure if I would have “Jerry rigged” the AC power between it and my BAT Preamp, I still be listening to the eight 6H30 tubes that reside inside the BAT.

Lesson learned (I guess). The internal fuse I’ve never changed or looked at since I bought it 1.5 years ago.

If the fuse is the wrong amperage, that too would explain a lot. When I checked the fuse, I only checked for continuity, not it’s Amp rating. Stupid me :-(

Damn good question though.