How to choose an upgraded tonearm.


In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.

My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.

What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.

Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?

Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,

Mike

skyscraper

I apologize for raining on the Mijostyn parade, but in this video, where the narrator is trying to demonstrate the importance of having the pivot located at the level of the LP surface (minutes 20-25 or so), he is really comparing the condition "headshell parallel to LP surface" to the condition "headshell raised at the rear".  The question is why is there an advantage to locating the pivot at the level of the LP surface for any given orientation of the headshell when viewed from the side.  Since most of the time we start out adjusting VTA such that the headshell is parallel to the LP surface, I take that as the norm. The video shows that raising the pivot at the rear such that the headshell is likewise raised at its rear will result in increased susceptibility to warp wow.  I have no problem with that, but that was not the question. I wouldn't ignore an otherwise excellent tonearm just because it may fail this one criterion.

@skyscraper 

 

Tell us what you do and how it works out. You have piqued my interest. While, I said, not something I would do… interested in the outcome.

Raul. you’re right there is a lot to learn, and the resources to learn are severely limited here. I’m out in the countryside with not even a high end dealer within several hours drive. But I do have an interest in trying to make at least a better informed decision than a shot in the dark. So I have at my disposal the internet, books and magazines to try and source information. You’re also correct that it’s hard to separate the wheat from the chaff with anything you read online.

I wouldn’t know anything at all about stereo equipment except it’s been a hobby of mine since the 1970’s, like many of the readers here.. I used to subscribe to three audio magazines back then and checked out stereo equipment stores which were plentiful in those days. Even went to a New York Audio Society meeting once. But that’s it. I’m not expecting to become an audio engineer any time soon. If I ever travel down near you though, I’ll stop by, pick your brain, and you can show me a few things. Until then Vaya con Dios mi amigo, hope that translates okay. Thanks for your advice.

Tablejockey and ghdprentice, I will be going at least for a few years with the stock JMW arm and a dual pivot mod. Might not be perfect, but should be pretty good. I was reading up today on the reportedly overly expensive VPI Fatboys since they should fit the current base. i’m not going to customize the turntable unless it’s truly a minor thing to do.

So maybe an eventual upgrade to a second hand gimballed Fatboy might be the only practical option.. It is frustrating to know that there are better tonearms out there in that price range, that won’t fit the VPI tonearm’s base. Resale however is not a concern. I plan on being entombed with the VPI Classic 2 and the rest of my newly purchased equipment, just like the Egyptian pharaohs used to be with their valuables.

I also plan on spending my remaining savings on traveling to foreign lands, beautiful French women, oil paintings and constructing a woodworking shop. That takes in everything from the ethereal to the mundane. No more stereo equipment though.

Lewm. I hope you know I was joking with you,. There are a lot of things to consider. and I will keep in mind the points you make. Maybe one day I’ll figure all this out. Take care,

Mike

Whatever you buy, make sure that it's adjustable. That is: VTA, VTF, azimuth, anti-skating (if applicable).

If you're prepared to accept a little quirkiness, you can take advantage of the greatest bargain in high end: the Trans-Fi Terminator, an air bearing linear tracker. Actually, that's air horizontally and a mechanical pivot vertically. Direct from the manufacturer, on the net.

Performs on the level of anything costing less than a new car. I use two: one with a Nottingham Analog upgraded to near Dais specification running a Miyajima Zero, and a DIY air bearing unit running a higher end Koetsu. Bonus: they are perfect for modifying and tweaking, which you need to do if running low compliance MC cartridges like these.

 

Reminds me of my old Bang and Olufsen Beogram 4002 tangental straight arm tracking tonearm. Probably not nearly sophisticated as yours.

Mike