Power Cables and Wall Sockets

@builder3 rereading your post I'm not sure we disagree.  All the homes I've seen in CA have 14 gauge wire for 15 amp outlets.  I just installed a new circuit for my stereo using 10 awg. The old one was 14 ga/15a.  I've never come across a 12 gauge wire for 15 amp service but you can do it.  In my home, all the 12 gauge circuits have a 20 amp breaker.  I know because I replaced my breaker panel and breakers.  --Jerry

Sadly a $5K power cord can make an astonishing improvement. A couple of direct lines can make a real improvement. As someone mentioned… it is additive. Each step need justify its cost in sound quality improvement.

I think most people start by upgrading power cords first. Even if you have previous experience with power cords, I think there is a natural desire to reinforce / rediscover why they are worth it. Once you realize / remember how big a difference they make… it is easier to do something that cannot be returned and stays with the house. I recently got equipment that used 20 amp plugs on the component side… so I had to buy all new ones… oh, Yeah, they can make a big difference. I am still experimenting with my amp power cord.

Direct lines make a big difference… standard gauge or better. Two lines are preferred… a 10 gauge (or go wild) for the amp, the other for the rest of the components. By the way even with a direct line… my system sounds better with my power conditioner than without.

This comes up a lot, and I wrote about it in two posts:

Does it make any sense to use a small spade or ring terminal crimped to the romex when we install our new audiophile outlets? I can't think of anywhere else we would use a bare wire connection or un-terminated except inside of a piece of gear or a speaker crossover and those are soldered. 

Does it make any sense to use a small spade or ring terminal crimped to the romex when we install our new audiophile outlets?

Absolutely not. You are much more likely to mess that up than you are to use the bare wire as God intended.

I do however feel using the rear entry (not backstabbed) slots with the clamp plates is the most secure method.