Installing dedicated 10 gauge lines


Everyone keeps saying how important it is to have a dedicated 10 gauge line from your breaker box to your amp (I have a Diablo 300), and a second one to your source components (primarily an InnuOS Zenith Mk 3 streamer/Roon core).

I would love to do this, but isn’t this a major expense, like $15k or more? Does all the drywall back to the breaker box need to be ripped out to install the new lines?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. If the answer to the above is yes and yes, this project definitely won’t get past my wife!

As an aside, on the same 15A circuit, I have my amp, streamer, a Mac Mini that is normally on, my TV, video game consoles, and a network switch. So, obviously not ideal but out of all of these the only things that are on while I’m listening to music, beyond my amp and streamer, are the Max Mini and the network switch which supplies network connections to my tv and game consoles.

Hoping installing the dedicated line installation somehow doesn’t require drywall ripping and replacement?

 

 

 

 

 

 

nyev

First things first. Code in my area is #12 for a 20amp circuit. I see a lot of people pull larger gage cable. Larger cable and a 20 amp breaker is still a 20 amp circuit.

I have a 30 amp 220/240, 2 dedicated 20 amp 12/2/g and a 15 14/2/g in my front room. Any room I set up is set up the same way. I use 220/240 ac wall units. I just rewired a room 30 years after I built it the same way. It cost me under 300.00 dollars for materials (at the time) to add two 50 amp sub panels and materials for 3 rooms. It was all copper Romex.

It took me a weekend of moving furniture to the middle of the room, covering it and getting to the point of touching up the texture on the cut dry wall. I left it until the following weekend, taped off the room and repainted.

I had 5 days of partial labor because, the work and taping the wall is one day, topping is another day, texture is another day, tape and primer is another day and then paint is another day. The first day is the only full day. So 8+2+2+2+2. A contractor will use primer/paint and hot mud to cut it to 2 days.. Then you can move the furniture back..

The answer is 16 hours for "a room" 2 weekends. A contractor that charges more than 1K a day for one man is kinda steep in my book. I use UNION electricians from the hall. OK 1.5K a day prices went up.. :-)

Materials 2-300.00 for a single room (NOW). Make sure it’s copper not aluminum with copper clad. No cryo treatment for wall cable, silly thing to do anyway for house wire. If you want to play with cabling after a couple 125a 5352A Hubbell receptacle are installed, HAVE FUN.

Permits: ?? 125.00 - 200.00 for the inspections..

2-3k is HIGH to me, but I’ve seldom had it done. I’m a DIY person. 300.00 for materials and a video goes a long ways.

Time for work.. I have to see where I’m driving too. 2 more years.. I’m DONE..😁

Thanks. I’m a DIY guy for certain things only.  This doesn’t sound like one of those things!  $3k IS steep to have it done, but it’s not $15K steep!

 Depending on your house you may be able to feed from the basement and not get involved with hacking up walls. $15K sounds ridiculous....

I am a retired lifelong carpenter/ building Contractor. I also ran my own line in my house after it was built. As @winoguy17 says, You can go through the crawlspace (if you have one) If Not then go through the the attic. There will be no need to cut Sheetrock except the hole for the remodel box. If you have a 2 story house and trying to put this on the 1st floor in a home without a crawlspace, it can still be done without much cutting of Sheetrock. This will take a lot of measurements and planning and is not for the typical DIYer.

Depending on where you live and how strict the codes are, an electrician should be able to do this for maybe $750-$1k. The later situation I spoke of will be more $$$, maybe double that price. One caveat is that this cannot be done in exterior walls due to the insulation without removing Sheetrock. Of course , the price then increases to double or more. Again, its all dependent on where you live and the bureaucracy & codes. Also some city codes are very cumbersome and this too raises the price.

Also, I agree with @helmholtzsoul concerning the 12g wiring. Most outlets will not accept 10 g  and you would have to junction it over to 12 g anyway. Good luck

For the Diablo, consider having it adjusted to run with 240V and running 12/2 Romex instead of 10/2. Using 240V / 20A circuit the Diablo 300 will require a 6.3A fuse, which leaves a big ratio between circuit capacity and amp needs of about 3:1.  This ratio is actually a bit better than you'd get with 10/2 at 120V:  30 Amps possible / 12A needed, so closer to 2:1

In addition, running 240V the voltage drop will be halved for the same distance given the Diablo 300. A much stiffer situation.

 

Best,

 

Erik