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5AR4 rectifier tube question

I am sort of shopping for one or more 5AR4s for a Cary SLP05 power supply because I’d like to have at least one spare and because I’d maybe like to roll two or three ad see if I can hear an improvement or vice versa. I make no claims of knowing much about the vacuum tube game; occasionally I get lucky & stumble on something that really works for me. As far as the 5AR4, I did a hit at Uncle Kevin’s site, and there were some that looked interesting (I am thinking of one in particular, it had a Japanese sounding name that started with a ’M’) but when I click on it, all I get is a picture of Uncle Kevin’s screaming face telling me "not to buy tubes" (later, when I finally took time to read, apparently his tube tester is down).

So I started doing hits on Ebay, and oh my gosh! I was inundated with choices and the variation in prices! Which do I stay away from and which should I be interested in? Would a 5AR4 from Bugera also be suitable for what I’d want to use it for? Could a rectifier tube provide a big sonic upgrade if I spent enough money on it? Can I make a sonic upgrade from what I believe (I haven’t opened up the power supply yet) is the stock EH 5AR4 without breaking the bank? I would be totally good with the $50.00 range and picking up 2 or 3 different ones to play with if those with experience thought I could improve the power supply in that range. If I had to I guess I could go more (the $100.00 range) but I probably wouldn’t be buying too many of them, and I was kind of HOPING not to go much over that.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the input; I always consider it part of my education.

immatthewj
whart's avatar
whart
3,053 posts
 

I have no idea of this guy’s system or room. You know, @jjss49 you gotta be there.

Trying to do remote troubleshooting is far from the mark. I am hardly a guru. I just know what I’ve experienced. Which is probably a lot given how old I am, and where I was from 1981-2017 in NY City. I was a member of the NY club (which had an annual dinner with the Chinese club-- sort of dare you to eat that stuff in Chinatown- I wish I had paid better attention in the ’80s). Horns and SETs, vinyl for sure.

I’m not a zealot. Whatever gets you there. I’m pretty open to new ideas; I got into digital for the first time just pre-Covid. But vinyl is still my go-to source, both for the material- sometimes, obscure when it should not be, but that’s a matter of taste, and quality of the gear-- admittedly I have not spent money on digital the way I have on vinyl. I would totally understand someone today saying, for most purposes, I’m good with digital and streaming. I’m not gonna diss them. When it becomes a matter of dogma, I stand back. To each their own.

jjss49's avatar
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jjss49
6,612 posts
 

yes, agree @whart - my apologies for my earlier comment (it wasn't really meant for you actually)

i think i am a little irritated seeing that terrible troll back here on a number of other threads using a new username... 

have a good evening, enjoy the music

rodman99999
6,160 posts
 

     I’d like to believe the OP capable of sorting through the (seemingly convoluted) preponderance of info and experience offered, once the tubes they’ve ordered are in hand.

     It appears they are disposed to trusting their own ears and don’t mind spending a few bucks, to experiment with their own equipment, in their own room.

    As long as they’re having fun/enjoying themselves, after the past 24 months of mandated misery: I say KUDOS!

     Worse case scenario: they’ll have a few good tubes to sell, once they’ve placated the Otic Nervosa beast.

 

avanti1960
1,487 posts
 

@immatthewj

i am unable to link the correct page on ebay.  tried several time but it keeps defaulting to the wrong page.  

just search "mullard GZ34 GE" and the listing will come up.  see second pic for the notches.  

tomcy6's avatar
tomcy6
2,597 posts
 

While you’re at ebay check out this link for an example of etched codes:

Mullard Blackburn GZ34 etched code

Top line right below the word Mullard - f32. f3 is the tube type and 2 is the change code, like a model number - v1, v2, etc.

The second line - B6D5. B is the Blackburn factory code. 6 is the year made, in this case 1966 (codes with three date digits are generally after 1962 or 3). D is the month, April, fourth letter of the alphabet fourth month of the year. 5 is the fifth week of April. They started adding the week code after 1962 or 3. That’s all there is to it.

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