How do you judge audio components and speakers?


I would say - listening to music you're familiar with, and comparing. We can talk about tight/bloomy bass, midrange clarity, treble extension and things of that nature. We can also be very specific with regards to how a particular track is supposed to sound; based on high-performance gear that we were able to experience - but only if it purports to be accurate without sonic colorations. Therefore, I guess you could say we have a reference point. This part is what I would consider "objective performance." 

Along with this, measurements go hand-in-hand.

On the other side of the coin - subjective performance is how we "want our systems to sound." If the vocals are too bright or sharp, if snares or unpleasant sounding instrumentals ruin an otherwise good song, it's usually because the system is too accurate. So high-end audio is about chasing an ideal that doesn't exist in reality - but in the minds of audiophiles who are seeking a very particular kind of sonic presentation that bodes well with their music library as a whole....giving you just enough detail to keep you interested, while at the same time having a sense of realism, presence, and imaging that makes the speakers dissapear. We are seeking the illusion of a live performance.

 

The above are just my points. Feel free to share what you think. If you think I'm wrong, I don't mind. 

 

Cheers.

 

Jack

 

jackhifiguy

I have an audio buddy who is really into measurements. He claims if it measures well it will sound good. He has gone through as many components as I have and is still chasing that perfect sound. I don’t think he likes the equipment he has picked out and measures so well!? Once he bought the same speakers I had bought. I purchased them strictly because I liked how they sounded at my dealer.....

I go by sound..... not measurements.

Very interesting story about someone who think measurements are voltmeter and decibel meter or laser pinpoint toe in...

But acoustic measurements has almost NOTHING to do with that (decibel meter are useful here)...It is about sound speed/ room size, head diameter, reverberation time, reflected waves timing, diameter cross ratio of the Helmholtz devices, densities of ions, temperatiure and air circulation, absorbtion/reflections/diffusion ratios, locations of devices, ratio behind the speakers distance and the room and the head location etc....

Ignorance in audio thread promoted by  SOME gear or tweaks sellers is there to sell upgrade without end...Customers believe it...

I have nothing against a tweak or an upgrade read me right!

But tweaks are not a method, and upgrading what we already own whitout having ever listen to it in optimal condition BEFORE changing it, is pure obsessive ignorant unconsciousness...

People dont want to know because they think it is too complicated probably and not costly enough to be true,😁

The truth is, it is acoustic and only acoustic that explain how and why all acoustical cues emerge from the speakers/room relation...Not the price tag...

The gear is secondary, acoustic primary...

 

 

Only the audio engineer can and must judge the design quality of their product BEFORE it is embedded in a room by their own set of standard electronical measures ... Only you can judge their design and product AFTER it is rightfully embedded in your room by using acoustic treament and mechanical acoustic control and tuning of YOUR room for YOUR specific ears ... This is my answer to the OP question...

 

@mahgister 

Ignorance in audio thread promoted by  SOME gear or tweaks sellers is there to sell upgrade without end...Customers believe it...

 

Yes, this is the tried and tested sales method that has caught out many many people.

I should know, I was one of them.

As you say, experimenting with positioning, room tuning and vibration control is a more reliable way forward.

Even in my situation where I have little choice but to keep the speakers within 8 inches of the front wall, a little experimenting with height and isolation has helped considerably.

One particular tweak that worked for me was to experiment with the tightness of the screws that hold the bass driver in place.

In the end I preferred 'finger tight' as opposed to going any further.

@mahgister

You said:

My speakers are modified by the way by heavy concrete load yes but also by some Helmholtz devices attached to them and on top of them (psycho-acoustic method here)...

Concrete as a damping material?

Let’s assume your speakers are already well damped. A good design by the manufacturer. You say I’m simplistic, but you have made a complex mess.

You also have 2 floor fans in your room alongside kitchen pans. Does this also improve the sound? And what does the aluminum foil in the corner of the ceiling do? That all could have been used in a nice toaster oven to warm up pizza...or create a wifi range extender.

These fans are remnants of past experiences years ago ... you have no clue about my ACTUAL audio room.. Why do you stick on these old images?

And you know nothing save sarcasm... I apologized to you post above because i think i was rude... 😁😊

You know nothing in acoustic, what is a reflective surface ? What do you think aluminum do for a part of the spectrum?

Ok forget me, i dont discuss with idiot that mock me..And i dont like free sarcasms from someone who think he knows better and who is manifestly ignorant ..

No more apology...

 

 

Let’s assume your speakers are already well damped. A good design by the manufacturer. You say I’m simplistic, but you have made a complex mess.

By the way do you think it is difficult to put concrete in a speaker and listen the result?

Only an idiot can say that my speakers are a mess WITHOUT listening them..

Only an ignorant can think that most speakers eliminate all resonance...

Bye...