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Musetec (LKS) MH-DA005 DAC

Some history: I was the OP on a four year old thread about the Chinese LKS MH-DA004 DAC. It achieved an underground buzz. The open architecture of its predecessor MH-DA003 made it the object of a lot of user mods, usually to its analog section, rolling op amps or replacing with discrete. The MH-DA004 with its new ESS chips and JFET analog section was called better then the modified older units. It has two ES9038pro DAC chips deliberately run warm, massive power supply, powered Amanero USB board, JFET section, 3 Crystek femtosecond clocks, Mundorf caps, Cardas connectors, etc., for about $1500. For this vinyl guy any reservation about ESS chips was resolved by the LKS implimentaion, but their revelation of detail was preserved, something that a listener to classic music especially appreciated. I made a list of DACs (many far more expensive) it was compared favorably to in forums. Modifications continued, now to clocks and caps. Components built to a price can be improved by costlier parts and the modifiers wrote glowingly of the SQ they achieved.

Meanwhile, during the 4 years after release of the MH-DA004, LKS (now Musetec) worked on the new MH-DA005 design, also with a pair of ES9038pro chips. This time he used more of the best components available. One torroidal transformer has silver plated copper. Also banks of super capacitors that act like batteries, solid silver hookup wire, 4 femtoclocks each costing multiples of the Crysteks, a revised Amanero board, more of the best European caps and a new partitioned case. I can't say cost NO object, but costs well beyond. A higher price, of course. Details at http://www.mu-sound.com/DA005-detail.html

The question, surely, is: How does it sound? I'm only going to answer indirectly for the moment. I thought that the MH-DA004 was to be my last DAC, or at least for a very long time. I was persuaded to part with my $$ by research, and by satisfaction with the MH-DA004. Frankly, I have been overwhelmed by the improvement; just didn't think it was possible. Fluidity, clarity, bass extension. A post to another board summed it up better than I can after listening to piano trios: "I have probably attended hundreds of classical concerts (both orchestral and chamber) in my life. I know what live sounds like in a good and bad seat and in a good and mediocre hall. All I can say is HOLY CRAP, this sounds like the real thing from a good seat in a good hall. Not an approximation of reality, but reality."

melm
sirnui
82 posts
 

I installed the three SR purple fuses last night. The way I like to do it, I burn in all system changes at the same time and then I would revert or change one thing at a time to determine if I like that one change or not.

I would like to share my methodology for initially installing the fuses. These SR fuses are directional. Based on my research, the "S" side of the fuse should connect to the Hot pin of the AC inlet. This is where the power is coming in. I used a digital multimeter to confirm which contact of the fuse housing had continuity with the Hot pin of the AC inlet. See diagram below as one looks at the AC inlet of the 005 with fuse and fuse holder removed:

           Ground

                ||
 Hot                  Neutral

  ||                         ||

Contact A       Contact B

 |-|                        |-|

In the diagram above, Hot had continuity with Contact A so I installed the fuse with the "S" side of the fuse near Contact A. I followed the same methodology for my preamp and headphone amp. These fuses are no where close to being broken in but first impressions are very important for me. I’ve never liked a system change long term if first impressions were bad.

Getting to the initial results, I’m keeping these Purple Fuses. They are the best fuses I’ve tried in my history with fuses The sound was more open and detailed. Bass and dynamics were still there if not slightly better than what I remember. On the downside, I sense more harshness from the system but I expect this to reduce once the breakin period is over.

 

charles1dad's avatar
charles1dad
10,250 posts
 

Fwiw, I think it's great to have multiple really good options, and impressions from people regarding what they've found to work well in the different approaches. Good discussion, imo.

Agree 100%

Always good to learn and appreciate how various people construct their audio systems in the pursuit of better sound quality. There is a strong component of art in the mix.

Charles

lordmelton's avatar
lordmelton
877 posts
 

@sns I guess someone will be along soon who has a true I2s output that can be switched between I2s and USB, we live in anticipation.

lordmelton's avatar
lordmelton
877 posts
 

@sirnui Hi, The SR Purple fuses are directional but Ted Denney, CEO of SR says that direction cannot be guaranteed.

The Blue and Orange and most other fuses do not have this issue.

Two days ago I put a Purple fuse into a DC LPS and I was sure I got it right, but last night I just got a feeling something was missing. Swapped it around and BANG big change.

I suggest you leave your fuses as you have inserted them, then after 24 hours swap them around one at a time to be absolutely sure they are in the correct direction.

Please believe me it works.

debjit_g
280 posts
 

I guess someone will be along soon who has a true I2s output that can be switched between I2s and USB, we live in anticipation.

 

They exist today - Pink Faun and Antipodes.

You can configure a Pink Faun server to be equipped with both I2S and USB board and both fitted with one of the best clock Ultra OCXO available in the market today. I wanted to fit my DIY server with their I2S card with Ultra OCXO when I had my PS Audio DS and Denafrips Terminator a while back but my current mainstream DAC doesn’t have I2S. I might spring for their USB with Ultra clock but that is almost twice that cost of the JCAT XE I am using today.

The other option is Antipodes K50.

If you really want to see the deep end of the I2S, then I would suggest that you sell your Aurender and look at either PF or the K50 :-)

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