Done exactly that with a Loki between pre and power.
Is good enough and it has a true bypass when you wanna rock out.
Is there a way to add "loudness" to a Peachtree Nova 150?
Has anyone tried using the Schiit Loki with a Peachtree Nova 150,300,500 ?
I have a Nova 150 with Vintage Klipsch Kg2 speakers (mini Forte’s). And am streaming with a Bluesound Node 2i. I also have a Denon DRA-25 that I upgraded from to the Nova 150. So, the Denon has a loudness knob that sounds good with my set up with the Loudness maxed on flat. This sounds good at lower volume. However, the Nova doesn’t unless it’s turned up quite loud and in my small living room it’s too loud. So does anyone know if I added the Schiit Loki with the loop on the Nova if it will do what the loudness knob does on the Denon?
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LOUDNESS, no matter how it is implemented by any maker, is ’supposed to be’ ONLY for low level listening, to compensate for our hearing system needing a boost of lows and a boost of highs ONLY at low levels. OP said
"Denon has a loudness knob that sounds good with my set up with the Loudness maxed on flat." FLAT (centered, top of the dial, is ZERO Loudness! (not maxed) ........................................... Denon Manual: This is the only english download on vinylengine, different model, but the ’loudness’ works the same on most of these Denon receivers. https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/denon/dra-750.shtml Just my guess, I’ve never seen or heard a Denon Receiver or it’s Loudness Denon Variable Loudness is MANUALLY set, independent from Volume Full loudness, (full left) (maxed) is +10db centered at 50hz; and +5db centered at 10khz. That is a lot of bass boost when maxed. FLAT, centered, top of scale is no boost, essentially OFF. FLAT, for listening at normal volumes when the ’fletcher-munson’ documented characteristic of human hearing is not involved. Tone controls still available and, PRESUMABLY (I’m guessing now as it makes no sense to me, you can listen), clockwise: it is a cut, a progressive inverse of loudness, cutting the bass and highs, again centered at 50hz and 10khz. I have no idea why they would implement ’Loudness’ this way. If I got it wrong, can anyone explain it???
............................................. Automatically and Progresssively Engaged Loudness is Best, IF SET UP PROPERLY. You want to avoid ’loudness’ being engaged at too high a level. Remote control is even better. This Chase RLC-1 Remote Line Controller will give you what you want. Has Progressively Engaged Loudness, AS YOU LOWER it from it’s default ’neutral’ (flat) start. https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/chase-technologies/rlc-1.shtml
Proper Setup: Note: it retains any prior adjustments, nice, thus you must cut power to it to reset to the defaults. 1. Chase unplugged/plugged in, ON = defaults, no loudness engaged. 2. separately adjust your preamp volume for your normal low, i.e. no loudness boost needed. leave it there, use only the Chase Volume after that. 3. Chase: raise volume (less attenuation) increases volume with no loudness. 4. Chase: lower volume. no loudness until you get back to it’s default attenuation level. As you add more attenuation, Loudness is automatically and progressively engaged. IF you have your preamp too high, and use the Chase to reduce volume to reach ’normal low volume’, then you have engaged ’Loudness too soon, it will sound muddy. ..................................... It also gives remote switched outlet, mute, volume, balance, treble, bass, 4 remote switched inputs. and ’fader’ between it’s two simultaneous line outs. It is from early Quad, just 4 speakers, no processing, then adjust/fade the volume front/rear like auto speakers. no one I know can tell if the Chase is in or out of my system(s). It's 120 db s/n spec is true. here’s one, you MUST have the REMOTE, no other way to control it.
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Per the description on the Peachtree site:
You're good to go. You can select if you want the Loki in the circuit, or not... |
reubent My garage/shop system, I need remote volume and mute while I’m working on stuff. Just as you told OP he can do, I use my Yamaha CR-1040’s ’adapter’ loop to go in/out of the Chase Unit I mentioned above, also taking advantage of it’s switched power outlet. Thus everything goes normally into the Yamaha, then engage the adapter loop involving the chase for power, mute, remote volume. |
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