Install A Dedicated AC Line at home

I have mulled this idea over for myself. But also you must look at the lines you intend to run in the NEW circuit. I find it ironic that peoplw wil spend thousands of dollars on 1 meter of power cable and ignore the standard 12 or 14 gage of ordinary coper or even worse coper clad aluminum unshielded lines in wall in some cases for 100s of feet. Then what about the breaker? Another thing to look at is the quality of and length of the ground to the breaker box. I was looking at a new line my mother had a LICENSED Electrician put in her 100 year old house. When searching out the ground lead, INSTEAD of running a 5 foot coper line to a standard 8 or 10 Ft. ground rod directly next to the breaker box, he ran over 50 ft, directly to the GAS line coming into the house.

The electrical inspectors in my area don't even need to be licensed electricians, they go to courses that they don't even need to fully attend, most of them go golfing instead. I had a friend that worked there and had a heating and cooling licence, he was the only one with that type of license and they didn't even have him doing the heating and cooling inspections.

@ronboco 

no nation wide as part of mush brains “inflation reduction” money laundering plan.

@mikempls Hmmm, this is just me, but I personally have a little bit of a problem with installing 30 amp circuits for audio equipment protection. Even though almost all audio equipment has its own internal fuse or circuit breaker, from gut instinct, it still just doesn't sit well with me (especially when feeding a 15 or 20 amp receptacle). To me, the 30 amp breaker allows just a bit too much headroom for protection, if a piece of equipment blows up. I get what you're trying to accomplish (providing low resistance current availability wiring), but I don't see how it even passes code to begin with. 

Here's what I have done for my power amplifier branch circuit, and even *this* wouldn't pass NEC code, but I still feel it keeps equipment protection a bit more in check (even though, again, almost every piece of audio equipment has its own internal circuit breaker or fuse). 1) 15 or 20 amp breaker in load center (circuit breaker box). 2) #10 AWG wire to outlet box 3) depending on what size breaker (15 or 20 amp) was used, provide the same rated outlet receptacle 4) since it's not very easy attaching #10 wires to an outlet, those wires get capped in the outlet box (using AlumiConn lugs - make sure to torque them correctly), and transferred to 6" #12 pigtails, to then attach to the outlet.

I personally don't have a problem with short distance smaller gauge pigtails. It's the 30 amp breaker I have a bit of a problem with, and the lower current rated outlets attached to it. 

AlumiConn's are my most favorite wire cap - in all situations. They are a bit pricey, and may have to be special ordered, but I feel are worth every cent. When installing the AlumiConn's, if you don't already own one, you must also purchase a reputable torque driver (this is a must).  

AlumiConn Lugs 

@steeveb  >>>The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.<<< I completely forgot about this. Thanks for the reminder.

Would seem you need an electrician and a game plan. A simple question is can I get Dedicated 10 or 12 gauge wires from my fuse panel to my listening room. at this point it does not matter what you’re doing with it, you just want dedicated line information and possibilities. How many outlets you need depends on your equipment now or in the future.

Agree...

Anything is possible... It all comes down to time and money. The electrician’s time and the OP’s money.

Not all electricians are created equal. I imagine that’s why the OP posted this thread. The OP is looking for recommendations for a good Electrical Contractor/Electrician in his area to do the job. A residential house wireman that only wires new homes for a living would not be a good choice, imo. The OP wants an electrician that has umpteen hours of experience installing branch circuit wiring in a finished house that is furnished and occupied. The OP wants an electrician that won’t make a lot of dust and leaves a mess for the OP to clean up.

Layout is important... Proper layout will save man hours in labor costs. And, "Oh I didn’t count on that"...

 

You do not have to listen to what crap others have and or why. No one online knows the electrical layout in your house, suggestions on what to buy… speculation, confusing, and a waste of time.

The OP should do his homework to learn what best practices are recommended for branch circuits that are used to feed audio equipment.

Those that say the electrician knows best and knows what is needed to meet electrical codes that’s fine for installing a branch circuit to feed a freezer or washing machine. May not be good for feeding audio equipment though.

NEC (National Electrical Code) is bare minimum electrical safety requirements.

Bare Minimum...

Quote:
National Electrical Code 90.1 Purpose:

(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons

B) Adequacy. This Code contains provisions considered necessary for safety. Compliance therewith and proper maintenance results in an installation that is essentially free from hazard but not necessarily efficient, convenient, or adequate for good service or future expansion of electrical use.

//


The NEC could care less about how your audio system sounds. NEC could care less if your system is having ground loop hum problems.

 

 

@zensview ,

Look at page 16. Read pages 31 thru 36.
https://centralindianaaes.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/indy-aes-2012-seminar-w-notes-v1-0.pdf


It is important that long parallel runs of NM cables (Romex Trade Name) need to be separated from one another by at least 12" or so, if possible, all the way to the wall duplex receptacle outlet boxes. (As soon as possible after getting out of the electrical panel.) If pulled next to one another the chances increase that the hot and neutral current carrying conductors of the branch circuits will induce a voltage onto the EGC, (Equipment Grounding Conductor) from cable to cable.. This can/will cause ground loop hum. Also any noise traveling on one branch circuit will be induced on the conductors of other branch circuits. One of the reasons for multiple branch circuits is to decouple the power supply’s of digital equipment from analog equipment. That won’t happen if the NM cables are running parallel against one another.

Also keep them away from other parallel running branch circuit wiring.
Especially lighting branch circuits. (Therein branch circuit wiring feeding LEDs, dimmers, and any other harmonic creating noise items that could/would induce a voltage, noise, onto the audio dedicated branch circuits.)
Here in an interesting video on harmonics cauded by a lighting dimmer control.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCK5W9vlAE0


If you install more than one dedicated branch circuit make sure to tell the electrician to install both branch circuits on 20 amp breakers fed from the same Line, leg, in the electrical panel. Both on L1 or both on L2.

Why?
Here is an old quote from a White Paper by ExactPower. (The Link is no longer any good. The last time I clicked on the Link was in May of 2013 when I posted it in a thread)

"Less than 300 microamps of ground loop current can cause hum as it flows in an unbalanced audio interconnect cable. However, harmonics of 60Hz that are generated from lighting dimmers or switch-mode power supplies sound like Buzzz mixed with a bit of Hummm and are more easily coupled by even smaller currents. Harmonics can add together when equipment is powered from different phases, so clearly there is an advantage to specifying same-phase electrical service to power the electronics systems in most cases....

Any leakage currents on the safety ground wires of split single phase load circuits fed by different phase legs will add together due to the 240V potential difference....

Power conditioners do not solve any of these common problems: Cross phase coupling (doubles hums & buzzes) .... What actually does solve them: Same phase power.
http://www.exactpower.com/elite/assets/pdfs/theTRUTH.pdf

 

*** Any leakage currents on the safety ground wires of split single phase load circuits fed by different phase legs will add together due to the 240V potential difference....

 

NO multiwire branch circuits... (A branch circuit consisting of 2 hot conductors and a common shared neutral conductor. The two hot conductor must be fed from opposite legs. One from Line 1 and the other from Line 2.)

Multiwire branch circuits are bad for audio equipment.

 

The Type of branch circuit wiring used and the method used for installation is important for a branch circuit(s) feeding audio equipment.

.