Don’t forget if you don’t get a permit or use a licensed electrician and you have a fire in your home you can forget your insurance company giving you a dime. They will use any excuse to not pay a claim.
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I have mulled this idea over for myself. But also you must look at the lines you intend to run in the NEW circuit. I find it ironic that peoplw wil spend thousands of dollars on 1 meter of power cable and ignore the standard 12 or 14 gage of ordinary coper or even worse coper clad aluminum unshielded lines in wall in some cases for 100s of feet. Then what about the breaker? Another thing to look at is the quality of and length of the ground to the breaker box. I was looking at a new line my mother had a LICENSED Electrician put in her 100 year old house. When searching out the ground lead, INSTEAD of running a 5 foot coper line to a standard 8 or 10 Ft. ground rod directly next to the breaker box, he ran over 50 ft, directly to the GAS line coming into the house. |
The electrical inspectors in my area don't even need to be licensed electricians, they go to courses that they don't even need to fully attend, most of them go golfing instead. I had a friend that worked there and had a heating and cooling licence, he was the only one with that type of license and they didn't even have him doing the heating and cooling inspections. |
@mikempls Hmmm, this is just me, but I personally have a little bit of a problem with installing 30 amp circuits for audio equipment protection. Even though almost all audio equipment has its own internal fuse or circuit breaker, from gut instinct, it still just doesn't sit well with me (especially when feeding a 15 or 20 amp receptacle). To me, the 30 amp breaker allows just a bit too much headroom for protection, if a piece of equipment blows up. I get what you're trying to accomplish (providing low resistance current availability wiring), but I don't see how it even passes code to begin with. Here's what I have done for my power amplifier branch circuit, and even *this* wouldn't pass NEC code, but I still feel it keeps equipment protection a bit more in check (even though, again, almost every piece of audio equipment has its own internal circuit breaker or fuse). 1) 15 or 20 amp breaker in load center (circuit breaker box). 2) #10 AWG wire to outlet box 3) depending on what size breaker (15 or 20 amp) was used, provide the same rated outlet receptacle 4) since it's not very easy attaching #10 wires to an outlet, those wires get capped in the outlet box (using AlumiConn lugs - make sure to torque them correctly), and transferred to 6" #12 pigtails, to then attach to the outlet. I personally don't have a problem with short distance smaller gauge pigtails. It's the 30 amp breaker I have a bit of a problem with, and the lower current rated outlets attached to it. AlumiConn's are my most favorite wire cap - in all situations. They are a bit pricey, and may have to be special ordered, but I feel are worth every cent. When installing the AlumiConn's, if you don't already own one, you must also purchase a reputable torque driver (this is a must). @steeveb >>>The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.<<< I completely forgot about this. Thanks for the reminder. |
- 65 posts total