The electrical inspectors in my area don't even need to be licensed electricians, they go to courses that they don't even need to fully attend, most of them go golfing instead. I had a friend that worked there and had a heating and cooling licence, he was the only one with that type of license and they didn't even have him doing the heating and cooling inspections.
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@mikempls Hmmm, this is just me, but I personally have a little bit of a problem with installing 30 amp circuits for audio equipment protection. Even though almost all audio equipment has its own internal fuse or circuit breaker, from gut instinct, it still just doesn't sit well with me (especially when feeding a 15 or 20 amp receptacle). To me, the 30 amp breaker allows just a bit too much headroom for protection, if a piece of equipment blows up. I get what you're trying to accomplish (providing low resistance current availability wiring), but I don't see how it even passes code to begin with. Here's what I have done for my power amplifier branch circuit, and even *this* wouldn't pass NEC code, but I still feel it keeps equipment protection a bit more in check (even though, again, almost every piece of audio equipment has its own internal circuit breaker or fuse). 1) 15 or 20 amp breaker in load center (circuit breaker box). 2) #10 AWG wire to outlet box 3) depending on what size breaker (15 or 20 amp) was used, provide the same rated outlet receptacle 4) since it's not very easy attaching #10 wires to an outlet, those wires get capped in the outlet box (using AlumiConn lugs - make sure to torque them correctly), and transferred to 6" #12 pigtails, to then attach to the outlet. I personally don't have a problem with short distance smaller gauge pigtails. It's the 30 amp breaker I have a bit of a problem with, and the lower current rated outlets attached to it. AlumiConn's are my most favorite wire cap - in all situations. They are a bit pricey, and may have to be special ordered, but I feel are worth every cent. When installing the AlumiConn's, if you don't already own one, you must also purchase a reputable torque driver (this is a must). @steeveb >>>The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.<<< I completely forgot about this. Thanks for the reminder. |
Agree... Anything is possible... It all comes down to time and money. The electrician’s time and the OP’s money. Not all electricians are created equal. I imagine that’s why the OP posted this thread. The OP is looking for recommendations for a good Electrical Contractor/Electrician in his area to do the job. A residential house wireman that only wires new homes for a living would not be a good choice, imo. The OP wants an electrician that has umpteen hours of experience installing branch circuit wiring in a finished house that is furnished and occupied. The OP wants an electrician that won’t make a lot of dust and leaves a mess for the OP to clean up. Layout is important... Proper layout will save man hours in labor costs. And, "Oh I didn’t count on that"...
The OP should do his homework to learn what best practices are recommended for branch circuits that are used to feed audio equipment. Those that say the electrician knows best and knows what is needed to meet electrical codes that’s fine for installing a branch circuit to feed a freezer or washing machine. May not be good for feeding audio equipment though. NEC (National Electrical Code) is bare minimum electrical safety requirements. Bare Minimum...
Look at page 16. Read pages 31 thru 36.
*** Any leakage currents on the safety ground wires of split single phase load circuits fed by different phase legs will add together due to the 240V potential difference....
NO multiwire branch circuits... (A branch circuit consisting of 2 hot conductors and a common shared neutral conductor. The two hot conductor must be fed from opposite legs. One from Line 1 and the other from Line 2.) Multiwire branch circuits are bad for audio equipment.
The Type of branch circuit wiring used and the method used for installation is important for a branch circuit(s) feeding audio equipment. .
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@steeveb @jea48 >>>The two hot conductors must be fed from opposite legs. One from Line 1 and the other from Line 2.<<< Even though steeveb failed to mention that in his post (I’m sure he just forgot), it would be a must in the 3-wire hookup that he described. You would never ever want to have two dedicated 15 or 20 amp branch circuits, on the same leg, sharing the same neutral (unless it was over-sized, but don’t even go there). Here are some great white pages put out by Middle Atlantic. Pay special attention to Middle Atlantic’s page 12 of the booklet (AC-HCF). If you’re looking to wire up a branch circuit for audio, AC-HCF is the wiring I would highly recommend using. Obviously some, due to existing building construction, won't be able to utilize this particular cable, but if and when possible, use AC-HCF (with isolated ground outlets) for your audio branch circuits, as it just doesn't currently get any better. Taking that even a step further, it would probably make sense to have a separate dedicated branch circuit just for your power amps, and one for your front end gear. Optimized Power Distribution and Grounding for Audio, Video and Electronic Systems
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