Reminder: how to tell current from an amp's specs?


I have a sinking feeling that I've been here before but, as the subject line says, how can I tell an amp's current from its published specs? 

Thanks!

northman

The REGA Osiris integrated amp is one of these exceptions. While it is a beefy hi-current and high WPC amp that doesn’t fully double down, it still has LOTS of current because of its high-end build and design. This is provided by those four Sanken output transistors per channel, that insure that no speaker is too hard to drive.

This statement is incorrect. The extra transistors make sure the output section can support the current without damage but if the power transformer lacks the current capacity it really won't make any difference.

 To me, a big honkin’ transformer (sorry Ralph) and the ability to double down to 4 Ohms and maybe double again down to 2 Ohms is a good indication an amp has the balls to power most speakers

This is generally correct but if the speaker does not have any low impedance dips it could be a waste of money, especially on Maggies which do not have such low impedance dips.

I should point out also that not all speakers that dip to 2 Ohms need a lot of current capacity in the amplifier; Wilsons are a good example. They can easily be driven by tube amplifiers even though the low impedance dip is in the bass. Generally speaking Wilson loudspeakers have traditionally been easy to drive.

If I can point something else out: Just because your amplifier can drive to 2 Ohms and is able to double power as it does so does not mean its sounding its best when doing so. All amplifiers make higher distortion when driving lower impedances! If you think that distortion is inaudible think again- the increased distortion is audible as increased brightness, harshness and a reduction of detail (distortion obscures detail) because most of that added distortion is unmasked higher ordered harmonics.

I have to disagree with atmasphere on the issue of low impedance Wilsons doing fine with tube amps. Any speaker that has a demanding impedance curve will not give a flat (to the best of its ability) frequency response if it is not driven by an amp that provides high current (doubles output with halving of impedance).

I'm not saying that you can't use a tube amp with a big Wilson but the speaker will not produce the frequency response that it was designed to produce. You are basically introducing an unpredictable tone control for the speaker. You may like the sound or you may not but you are not getting the sound that the designer heard when he voiced the speaker.

There are speakers like Devore Fidelity that are intentionally designed with a flat impedance curve so they can be run by virtually any amp. My Thiels would sound anemic with a tube amp because they drop to around 2 ohms in the bass region.

I have to disagree with atmasphere on the issue of low impedance Wilsons doing fine with tube amps.

Yeah, good luck with that. 
 

If I can point something else out: Just because your amplifier can drive to 2 Ohms and is able to double power as it does so does not mean its sounding its best when doing so. All amplifiers make higher distortion when driving lower impedances! If you think that distortion is inaudible think again- the increased distortion is audible as increased brightness, harshness and a reduction of detail (distortion obscures detail) because most of that added distortion is unmasked higher ordered harmonics.

Like I said before, I defer to Ralph always.

 

 

@northman "I've repeatedly read that some speakers, notably Maggies, thrive on high current amps. "

Quick answer: If you want to listen to Maggies at normal levels a couple of hundred wpc @ 8 ohms is about right. If you want to turn it up, start thinking about a strong 400 wpc. My Mac 400 wpc amp was used up pretty quick on a pair of .7s.