Electrostatic Speakers Vs. Horn/component Tweeter


I’m curious… when a horn or tweeter goes bad, it’s clearly obvious.  The driver is shot and the audio sounds clipped and distorted.  Electrostatic however, have massive surface areas and use static electricity to vibrate the material…. So when an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what actually happens to cause it to go bad, and does it go bad like a tweeter, where it goes from sounding fine to sounding like crap in a split second?  Or will an electrostatic speaker slowly decay over time, so you don’t notice it initially, and then one day, it just doesn’t sound as good as you remember it sounding?  If an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what causes it?  Is it torn material?  Is it something where you can replace a single small part?  Or do you typically have to replace the entire panel?

I’ve come across plenty of blown regular speakers in my life, but never a blown (if that’s even possible) electrostatic speaker.

maverick3n1

The panels on ML speakers are hard to damage to the point of failure,  They do not suffer from arcing like Quads do, for example.  I know of only one instance where a friend’s ML panel failed.  The owner stored the speakers in a garage for several years in a high humidity climate.  The wire that charges the panel corroded at the point where the wire attaches to the panel. 

Ive had a pair of ML ESLs for a few years now... No problems... The panels crossover to the woofer at 500Hz... And the woofer goes down to 42Hz... I would set your AVR to a full range and cross over the subwoofer itself at around 52Hz... So if you are doing a "small speaker" crossover in your AVR your most likely doing things wrong... You can try to run the ESL at another ohm setting via your AVR 2, 4, 6 or 8 and see how that changes your thermal issues or add a 2 channel Amp... These ESLs will test your AVR or AMP diving into low ohm territory... Standard AVRs and AMPs will want to double power as ohms half and ESLs "map" opposite of standard speakers...  Are you bi-amping or bi-wiring???  Sounds odd to me if you are driving it all from an AVR...  If I were to bi-amp I would use tubes for the panel and solid state to drive the woofer...

BTY you can vacuum the dust off the panels... RTFM...

My receiver won’t utilize the subwoofer if the main speakers are set to stereo mode and large speakers. Setting them to small, tells the receiver to use the sub for low frequencies and thus reduces the draw from the speakers.  My receiver is biamping the speakers at 150w per channel x2 per speaker, but it’s only 8ohm stable.  It can do 6ohm above 1k frequency.  I think these speakers can pull as low as 2ohm, so it’s just too much for the receiver to handle.  This is why I need to eventually get a new amp when I can afford it.

It might help if you clarify which ESLs you have...  I have the original Motion ESLs...  Did drive them with a Yamaha AVR...  No thermal issues...  Now drive them with a small McIntosh MC152...  No problem with those autoformers...  You might want to find an AMP that "maps" to your ESLs and does not just double as ohms dip...  As those ESLs will dive into the lows ohms at high frequencies, unlike orthodox speakers which dive towards low ohms at low frequencies...