4 ohm tap vs 8 ohm tap


I have read reports about using the 4 ohm tap regardless of what the ohm rating for your speakers are. Right at this moment (who knows how long) I am using Meadowlark Shearwater speakers with Rogue Magnum 120 amps.
What would the audible difference be? And could I cause any damage to either products by running the Meadowlarks which are rated for 8 ohm with the 4 ohm tap?
Thanks, Scott
scottht
Makes me wonder about the Proacs that I sold because I was unhappy with them. Wonder how they would have sounded with the 4 ohm tap.
Of course the output tubes are always connected to the full primary winding of the transformer. So everyone is talking about the secondary windings, 4 vs 8 ohms. However, when you put an 8ohm load on the 4 ohm tap (or 4 on 8) you have changed the impedance loading on the output tubes, even though you never moved their wires. This probably affects the operating characteristics of the tubes.

No taps on my Crown PS-200s. The spec sheet says it supports 4, 8 and 16 ohm impedance. 170 wpc at 4 ohm, 100 wpc at 8 ohm, 55 wpc at 16 ohm - max average at 0.1% THD. Just swapped in a lovely pair of new Wharfedate Liniton Heritage Speakers listed at nominal 6 ohm, dipping to just under 4 ohm.

Still breaking in the speakers but they seem to sound best with the Crown at full attenuation, unpowered Shitt preamp with the input pot about 50% and system volume controlled by the DAC streamer input level. The Lintons are 3-way double rear ported, warm and rich with a wide dispersion range. The '70s called, they want their throwback box speakers back :)

FWIW I tried the 4 OHM taps on my setup and although my speakers are rated as "8 ohm compatible" and are more like 4 ohm nominal. I felt they were a bit constrained on the 4 ohm tap and soundstage shrunk a bit. That surprised me.