Recommend a good tube power amp in the 100 wpc range for under $4k

Thanks for the input so far.  Yes, I am looking for a bit of that “tube magic.” Switching to a tube preamp has made the music seem so much more alive, with more depth, possibly due to hearing more harmonics from the various instruments.

I now understand that I do not need anywhere near 100 wpc for the mids and highs, that probably 30 to 40 watts will be more than sufficient in our roughly 13 x 20 x 8 living room, open on one side to the dining room.  A higher power tube amp would just give me power reserves I probably would never use; we like to listen at moderately loud levels—just beyond where the speakers “open up”—not very loud levels.

Someone commented that the crossover will handle gain matching between the two amplifiers, which was a major concern.  
 

One thing I do not understand is the need to remove or disconnect internal crossovers when using an active external crossover.  My speakers have two sets of binding posts, one for lower frequencies and one for mids and highs.  When a manufacturer builds a speaker this way, do they not bypass at least the crossover divides the lows from the mids and the highs?  (In the F702s, that would at 250 hz.). If not, what is the point of two sets of binding posts?  Thus, it would seem to me that if I set the active crossover at 250 hz I am simply duplicating the internal crossover point and sending just frequencies below 250 Hz to the woofer, which is what the internal crossover does; frequencies above that are directed into the “upper” binding posts, and it seems to me that I would want to retain the internal crossover dividing the mids and highs (1.7 kHz in this case)  because I am only bi-amping, not tri-amping.  OR, are we getting into the “magic” of crossovers with the possibility of some undesirable interaction between the internal crossover at 1.7 kHz and the active crossover?  Can someone explain.

As you can tell, I am new at this, and I greatly appreciate your advice.  My current system is far beyond what air replaced in the past year—Infinity Modulus satellites (the 1992 quality model with EMIT tweeter before Infinity went mass market) and a NAD C356BEE used as a preamp feeding into a McIntosh MC2125, of which for the latter I was the original owner.  I am looking at tubes for the upper end to see how much better I can make my system without spending gobs more money.

Many thanks, folks.  Good listening to all.

@mike4597 

Active Vs. Passive Crossovers. See article below:

Mike

https://sound-au.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm

Power: yes, less for just mids and highs, however, consider you might want to try just the tube amp for all, then, if more power is affordable, ...

smaller means less heat, cost, and more placement options.

Crossover does not equalize gain, just distributes these frequencies to this driver ...

You need gain controls on at least one amp (preferably both), get them volume matched to each other at your favorite listening volume, then after that fundamental match, the preamp controls the volume to both amps.

Your plan is misguided.  Unless you perform surgery on your speakers to hardwire the LF input terminals of the to the woofer and the HF inputs to the correct circuitry traces for the upper crossover (MR/TW) you will be “double crossing” your speakers. Plus, an engineered product like the Fynes often have compensatory elements in their passive network that the electronic crossover won’t be able to match.  Skip the electronic XO!  It’s perfectly OK to just biamp into the terminals as is with the 2 amps as long as their gains are matched.  50W tube amp should suffice.  I do this with my own DIY speakers to great effect with a SS woofer amp and EL34 based upper range amp. 

RE: the crossover discussion.

No, you don’t need or want 2 crossovers.

If your speaker is set up for biamping, then the crossover inside the speaker will split the signal at the frequency that the OEM thinks is best.

Then you just need to figure out how to make it work with no external crossover.

Notice how people looking to bi-amp are usually folks that a lightbulb goes off in their head and it sounds like a good idea. and it can work. but if I were going to biamp I’d approach it like this: carefully pick the amp I live for mids and highs, try many amps. Let them drive entire speaker. then add a second ss amp to drive the lows only if the other amp was lacking.

Jerry