Powered speakers show audiophiles are confused
17 of 23 speakers in my studio and home theater systems are internally powered. My studio system is all Genelec and sounds very accurate. I know the best new concert and studio speakers are internally powered there are great technical reasons to design a speaker and an amp synergistically, this concept is much more important to sound quality than the vibration systems we often buy. How can an audiophile justify a vibration system of any sort with this in mind.
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We need to understand psychoacoustics and the huge placebo effect that we experience in the audiophile community.This represents YOUR perception which is fine, do you have anything published about this "placebo" effect? As for psychoacoustics do you have any creds? Technobabble begets techno babble, claims can be linked to research. What links can you share to back this up? with a friend who worked at a vintage guitar store.I hope this isn't your "research", then again I wouldn't be surprised if you were taken in by the "halo" effect...LOL. |
@donavabdear I also have vintage guitar amps Vox Essex, Marshall Plexi, and a Fender Twin Reverb, I am still a hack. Love the tube sound and that will always keep me away from powered speakers for my home system's . Cheers. |
kota1
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@ronboco wrote:
In an active config. an onboard amp by itself doesn’t pair better than an outboard ditto. Remember, active can be an outboard solution as well.
Not necessarily.
Yes, active XO’s are placed prior to amplification on signal level, not on the amp’s output side between that and the drivers taking the full power.
No, primarily active eliminates the passive XO between the amp and drivers, and this gives the amp(s) much better control over the drivers sans intervening passive XO components, which in turn has the drivers perform more accurately to what’s fed to them by the dedicated amp sections. @ghasley wrote:
While amp matching certainly isn’t irrelevant, its importance - in some respects - has been blown a bit out of proportion, if you ask me. Overall, active config. also allows the designer to downscale amps, while getting away with it, being the output power is more effectively used sans passive XO’s, and they also perform (i.e.: sound) better actively. As a bundled solution that comes in handy with more compact designs. Not trying to diminish amp matching, as per your next quoted paragraph below, but often it means allowing the designer to potentially downscale while dedicating amp sections to their specific driver dittos.
Indeed. It’s what I do myself in my outboard config. active setup; lower wattage class A from the lower to central mids on up, high power class TD taking over down to the upper bass, and high power class A/B from here to 20Hz. Common wisdom, very generally, may dictate class D variants to the lowest octaves, but I’ve found using my class A/B amp (MC² Audio) to serve better from 20 to ~85Hz and having a bigger, more positive effect on the remaining frequency spectrum above in comparison to using my class TD Lab.Gruppen amp here, which is no slouch either, I might add. Interestingly the MC² Audio amp is the better full-performer vs. the Lab.Gruppen (but not the Belles class A, which is the best of the bunch), to my ears, and yet the overall sonic picture has it serving better in the subs region - go figure. That’s what an outboard solution allows you, to use external quality amps and experiment with their implementation in the respective frequency spectrums. |
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