DIY TT

@holmz I am not familiar with the SOTA Bearing but in general the designs are to have a few sacrificial parts incorporated in the Housing.

The Housing Liner Bushes are Sacrificial, and the Ball at the Base or Sometimes Head of the Spindle are Sacrificial.

A Ball can also be found to be an Interference Fit which is embedded into the spindle and will be seen as a Half Ball when witnessed.

Bush Liners are able to be produced from a material of choice to the tightest of tolerance to match the spindle that is in hand, this is very beneficial. 

There are numerous considerations for the material that can be selected for the replacement of a ball, I lean toward the lowest 'coefficient of friction' at this interface, but this can result in using a fragile material.

It is working with these components in the Bearings Assembly that usually produces an overhaul.

The Spindle is commonly found to be produced with a Case Hardening and will have to be subjected to substantial period of use in an unwanted environment to show abrasive damage or at the worst a measurable wear.

The Sump of the Bearing Housing can be prone to leach lubricant, measures are usually adopted to improve on the seal at this point, as having options on Lubricant Type can be beneficial.

Options on Viscosity of Lubricant from High to Low Viscosities are not a bad place to be. It is not uncommon to see where individuals have reported on the merits of a particular viscosity being in use.

If the Bearing assembly was optimised the impact on the replay is substantial, the Styli in the Groove will be in its best environment with an optimised spindle rotation and low mechanical energy transfer resulting.

Add P'holz to add to the management of energy transfer, well I wish I present to see your expression at the first Album Reply with the new designs in use.

Holmz, just buy the SOTA Eclipse package complete. Does it occur to you that the question “ where do I buy a DIY platter and bearing?” Is internally an oxymoron, since DIY implies you want to make those items yourself.

Raul, I have no conviction about what is the best suspension. I think each turntable and each environment may require a unique solution. But I do admire the Minus K, and I do dislike internal springs.

Holmz, just buy the SOTA Eclipse package complete. Does it occur to you that the question “ where do I buy a DIY platter and bearing?” Is internally an oxymoron, since DIY implies you want to make those items yourself.

I got the motor package and all the stuff.
Now will be getting the bearing for the existing table.

This bearing I am looking for, is for the left over bits… arm, cart, old motor… 
If I could get a Clear Audio magnet bearing assembly, that would be ideal and I could make a plinth and have a second deck.
…Well it would be a plinth and then a platter to go onto the spindle/bearing assembly.

Add P'holz to add to the management of energy transfer, well I wish I present to see your expression at the first Album Reply with the new designs in use.

No Panzerholz that I could find available in Australia, and the places in the US sell it by the 4’x8’ sheet.
I’ll try a router forum, and see if some others have off cuts or want to get parts of sheets.

Basically I need one piece, or a couple of pieces, that are closer to the size.

To give a better opportunity to acquire a Plinth Material of interest. 

Search for Densified Wood Suppliers. The general rule is a Board Produced with Cross Grain Ply, 25 Layer per 25mm and boded with Phenolic Resin is the Goal.

Permali will potentially be your first discovery. This material is similar in Density @ 1400Kg per m3. It has a Damping Factor that is in keeping with P'holz, but I think it has a variance in the frequency, so dissipates energy with a difference, maybe that is down to Beech and Birch wood as the base materials.  

@holmz , The new Sota bearing is just like the Clearadio. It has a magnetic thrust mechanism. The female section of the bearing is an integral part of the platter so what you are talking about is a new platter assembly which is heavier than what you currently have and the suspension will sag and it's resonance frequency drop.

You are best off sending the table back to Sota and let them upgrade it for you or just trade it in on a new Sapphire Eclipse. You might as well add vacuum clamping while you are at it. As far as multiple arms are concerned if you get additional; tonearm boards weighted for any specific arm you can have several arms mounted up and fully aligned then changing arms is a snap. Three Allen cap screws is all you have to undo. I can change arms in less than five minutes. I am contemplating getting a wood CB directly from Frank Schroder and doing just that. 

@lewm , it is interesting that the DP80 and Sota both read a trigger under the platter to gauge speed. In the Sota's case it is a small magnet. The controller's response is different. The Denon makes an immediate adjustment while the Sota makes its speed changes very slowly. The MinusK is full of springs by the way.