How are you liking the Ref10 clock on W20SE and MK3-CDT3?
Streamers and their Fuses
I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.
Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉
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- 90 posts total
Brandon @brandonhifi Thanks for the update. I am not surprised as your feedback aligns with mine on N29 fed by external clock. I may reach out to you on clock cables once I get my N30SA. Enjoy your fabulous system! |
Brandon I am neither a fuse believer or a denier, I have upgraded my fuses to some hi-fi tuning for the hell of it. I would never spend $200 on any fuse, same goes for power cables. There has to be a limit to our madness, especially looking at your system, it boggles the mind how with such a complicated , congested looking system, you can discern any difference from changing a fuse, when there is so much variables going on. It seems to me you are just interested in just added stuff to your system than just enjoying the music. |
- 90 posts total