Absolute Sound's "Reviews"

Their paper version always has several extensive subjective reviews and one very lengthy review of a very expensive component.  They do have 2 or 3 issues a year where they do their recommended components and awards, which sounds like what you're describing.  They also often have an article or two about music or musicians along with several column length album reviews.

most of the two paragraph reviews are excerpts from the longer review in the actual magazine...

Reviewers/authors all have their own style.  That makes it more difficult to determine the utility of many reviews across publications.  Having said that, if Mike Fremer actually likes something, it's probably pretty good-- maybe great.

Sometimes, lately it seems more often, that they put up these "thumbnail" or capsule summary lite-reviews on their website, like the Totem. When I googled the article I got a link to a longer version, and the URLs vary slightly. Weird that they make a longer one available for free (though I do subscribe to the e-version) but harder to get to.

https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/2022-golden-ear-totem-acoustic-element-fire-v2-loudspeaker/

https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/totem-acoustic-element-fire-v2-loudspeaker/

If you Google, you can often find the longer version though some don’t seem to be full reviews:

If you don't like it, don't subscribe (or read).  Pretty simple.