Grimm MU1 Streamer - Really "The Best"?


I've recently become interested in the Grimm MU1.  While reviews of top end players from Innuos, Aurender and Antipodes and others are typically all very positive, the tone of the many pro reviews of the Grimm MU1 go far, far beyond, with some reviews resorting to using superlatives and gushing of positive system transformation and not being able to stop listening to material, etc..  HiFi Advice and Steve Huff (actually calls it "magic") have such reviews.

Given the delay in availability of the Innuos Pulsar which I'm told will be better than my current Zenith Mk3 + PhoenixUSB reclocker, I am interested in replacing my streaming setup with a one-box solution that includes a high-precision clock.  The new streamer will continue to feed my Gryphon Diablo 300's DAC module, which I have no interest in replacing.

I'm actually a fan of Innuos, after they improved the sound of my Zenith with firmware updates and after I added their PhoenixUSB reclocker. I appreciate this commitment to improving sound quality which is why I was so interested in the Pulsar.

The trigger for considering an upgrade is not for improved sound, but rather, to solve some issues I have with too many Audioquest power cords coiled and clumped together. I will get to lose one of them and one of my USB cords with a one-box streamer. I've noticed my sound is very sensitive to positioning of my AC cords and find I often need to re-adjust the PC feeding my amp to get proper sounding vocals at center stage.  One of my subs also seems to be picking up AC noise when the crossover is set above 60Hz. The second trigger is simply system simplification, removing one box.  All that said I don't really have any complaints regarding sound, and the PhoenixUSB reclocker truly did improve the sound of my Zenith.

While the Grimm MU1 has it's 4X upsampling up it's sleeve with reviewers absolutely glowing over this feature and it's extreme ability to separate tones to the left, right, front, and back far better than the rest, I don't see that Grimm has gone to any lengths with regard to power supply management in the way other brands do including Innuos. The MU1's ultra-simplistic interior doesn't bug me, but the lack of transformers and power management makes me wonder....

Are there any updates from folks who have directly compared the MU1 vs similarly classed streamers from the competition?  Did you find it to be as revelatory as the pro reviewers found it? And, how does it compare to other streamers with it's 4X upsampling disabled?  Does it sound like it suffers from it's lack of power management?  I do see that the clock should be very good...

 

 

nyev

Just realized that the differences I’ve observed between the Innuos and Aurender setups I tested are not dissimilar to the differences that HiFi Advice has noted between the MU1 and K50 (for followup comments after revisions from both companies).  Interesting…

I can continue to test over a long term in a relaxed manner. It’s a fun process so far, and I’m still totally stunned how different the two setups sound from one another.

My suspicion is continued burning-in and switching to the AES connection path is only going to improve the Aurender N20 from its already impressive initial presentation.

Charles

@nyev The master clock is for later consideration but it's absolutely essential for realising the full performance of the N20.

In the meantime why don't you try inputting one of your Dragon PCs into the N20 and disabling the powerline in your AQ USB cable.

At this stage I would only listen to tracks on your SSD and try the N20 in critical listening mode.

If you do some streaming don't forget to switch MQA on, if you listen to Tidal, the N20 will give you the first unfold, 96KHz.

 

@lordmelton, not sure if it matters but my Dragons are both the high current versions (powering my amp and Torus). I am very familiar with the differences between the Hurricane and the Dragon, at least for my amp. The Hurricane is actually a pretty good cord as well. For me the Hurricane really just had less stage depth and a slightly elevated “glow” in the lowest frequencies, vs the Dragon. I’m also not sure how to disable the power on my AQ Diamond USB cord, without ruining it. In theory it won’t help, as my Gryphon DAC features a supercap acting as a battery to provide clean and stable power for USB.

For now I’m just letting it run and checking in once in a while. The real party begins when my demo AES cable shows up. Seems Aurender really pushes AES over USB, like Antipodes. It’s one of the first points on the features list on its web page. And MU1 but that’s different because of the FPGA oversampling. I’ll do way more intensive critical listening when my demo AES arrives. Trying to be patient as I figure the N20 needs some continued run time. In all likelihood though, the prior owner almost certainly must of run it over 200 hours in the two months he had it on his rack.

So far, I have solutions from Innuos and Aurender - both are truly great in different ways from one another, and both have drawbacks that are also different from one another! The more I listen to one the more respect I have for the other! I’ve never experienced an audition quite like this! Makes me wonder if the K50 or the MU1 might be the goldilocks solution. But yeah, the AES cable with the N20 should stir the pot. The fact that the N20 is helping spotlight what the Innuos does well is making me consider the Statement (not the next-Gen, too pricey). Not really a fan of the two-box solution. And, I feel like new models could possibly be around the corner? Possibly with AES support as the Pulse series has? Who knows. Probably a year or two still. Also, I have a hunch that putting the listener further back from the performers may be a “house sound” sort of thing for Innuos. Which is actually quite good. But, I think I’m looking for more of a front row experience. The Aurender does that. I’ve also read that the Antipodes really does that - puts you where the performers are and the soundstage envelopes around you. Moreso than the MU1. But all that is just a few common experiences I’ve read on HiFi Advice and also from some owners comments.

 

https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574

I know it talks about printers but disregard that. Put the electrical tape on both ends of the +5v pins. Enjoy! You won't damage anything. If it doesn't work your DAC needs the powerline. No harm done.