Bi-Wiring

@navyachts IDK. I never worry about warranty. I just worry about sound.

You probably have the big heavy cardas binding posts which are a huge mass that the charge has to fill as it passes through.  I think I'm in the minority thinking this is important and I don't think it is a huge effect.  I'm just into little tweeks that help. so unless you take out the big heavy binding posts, mods probably won't make much difference.

But warranty law is not well understood. For a manufacturer to deny a claim becasue you modified, then they need to show causal relationship between your mod and the failure. For example, if you put a high flow air filter on your car and the window fails, there is no relationship.

Jerry

I had biwired speakers for a couple decades. But some questions first.

What is your system and venue? It would be really helpful if we could see it. There is a place under your UserID to create a virtual system. This would be very helpful for us.

My first question would be, have you spent lots of time getting your speakers placed correctly, then carefully chosen speaker cables, then interconnects, then power cords, then really worked on carefully done room treatments… walls, sidewalls, behind. Then I would work on if bi-wiring can help. While the order can vary a little bit in terms of impact (like room treatment might have the greatest impact after placement)… but the possible benefit of bi-wiring is down there somewhere below the impact of power cords. While it is all additive, it is important to get the big stuff done first… then the really small stuff… biwiring is way down there.

So, it would be very great to see your system and biwiring would likely have a very small benefit. My experience is that choosing the right brand and level of cable is far more important that normal wiring vs bi-wiring.

For me, I have never been happier than having bi-amp with 3 way active crossover.

I can split out sub, then use a solid state amp for lows, and a couple mono tube amps for mid-highs. Since the input frequency to each amp is limited, the signal coming out of each amp is “cleaner” for that range and allows each to “shine”.  Good large gauge, shielded and as short as possible, wire that offers minimal resistance also seems to improve the performance.

I can split out sub, then use a solid state amp for lows, and a couple mono tube amps for mid-highs. Since the input frequency to each amp is limited, the signal coming out of each amp is “cleaner” for that range and allows each to “shine”. 

Clean?
Shine?

Why not just use a cleaner and shinier and large tube mono block?

No sonic benefit to running an extra set of wires to your speakers. True bi-amping requires an active crossover and another strereo amp.