Actually there is well established controversy about wine experts. Blind wine tasting is a thing and the results can cast doubt upon the expert opinions. Plus the wine world has been rocked by fraud scandals. For instance, the label is not what's in the bottle and drinkers didn't seem to notice.
Also wine making is a craft, but there is tons of science involved. Wine is water and ethanol plus 2% by volume of other chemicals. It's not like the wine makers don't know what those other chemicals are and manipulate them to their preferences.