Tube tester?

Like a broken record, I keep on saying anyone with tube equipment should buy their own tube tester.

............................................................

most testers of that era used cheap hardware, thin vinyl, so don't let the beat up look concern you IF the seller says tested, works ....

those numbers you mentioned: "How do you read tubes that are marked :(I.e) 95/91 or 46/41"

are not tube identification numbers, there are markings on the tubes themselves, i.e. 12ax7; 12au7; 6sl7; kt88; el34; ...

pull them out, rotate them in the light until you can see the marking on the side of the glass.

they have key slots, or missing pin holes, so you cannot reinstall them incorrectly, BUT, make sure you know which socket they came from/go back into.

some chassis have the tube type printed next to the sockets, some print V1, V2 ....

then there is a reference page in the manual saying V1 is ... V2 is ...

.................................

Cary ought to be able to help you, and simply search the internet with your model number, a lot of info is out there.

@elliottbnewcombjr

Good point to get a tube tester, when:

.you have a lot of tubes, meaning selling, buying or your equipment uses many and requires frequent tube change. Yes in the long run it would be more economical too.

.have learnt a lot about your tubes or tubes in general and know what you want to measure.

.can maintain your tube tester, especially when vintage

.if you want to buy a tube tester, whether vintage or new, do not get a cheap one, a different research is needed for what kind of tube tester you need.

Otherwise a good and reputable vendor can mostly provide what is requested and with valid measurements.

My Opinion

ANYONE with tube equipment needs his own tester to have confidence in their tubes when problems/suspicions occur, when checking periodically, when checking/confirming new purchases, ’matched’ ....

You don’t need an expensive pro version to get simple and relative answers. Smaller, lighter, makes it easy to bring upstairs, take to a friend’s house .... that’s why I like the Accurate Models, 157, 257, I have both.

I have a big expensive heavy one, the little Accurate testers ALWAYS gave the same answers as the big one. It’s downstairs somewhere, I haven’t seen it in so long, I forget if it a Jackson or a Hickok

Agree with carlsbad…Unless you are buying and selling tubes or are bored and want to dig into tubes and tinker with testers just locate a repair shop that tests tubes or testing service like the one on the link below. I was considering buying one until I researched it and talked to experts. The affordable testers in good working order only tell you if a tube is good meeting the standard. If you buy a one that has the capability to measure GM, match etc. ,which are expensive, they have to maintained and calibrated regularly.
Tube testing service example: https://www.western-glow.com/vaccum-tube-testing-matching/

@carlsbad 

+1

I am not in the geek camp. I have all tube gear. My equipment has tube time counters. Even if they didn’t it isn’t that hard to generally estimate the tube time. I have about 40 tubes in my system. I have swapped 3 tubes in the last 3,000 hours of play… they are recommended to be replaces every 2,000 hours.

I just buy tube sets either from the equipment manufacturer or Upscale or the Tube Company. I keep an extra set for each unit. If you get a whistle or strange effect. Swap to new tube set a couple at a time to ID bad tube. This has only happened to me twice in ten years. Really simple.