Outlets and Wire Gauge? - Please help!


I finally contracted an electrician to run two dedicated lines - a week from today! I have been reading thread after thread and the consensus appears to be going with 10awg wire for the 20amp run. My problem is two-fold:

  1. I'm stuck selecting an outlet because the electrician says that no 20amp outlet can take 10awg, that "10awg is for 30amp outlets".
  2. I'm stuck selecting an outlet because of what it might do to my sound. 

I simply want to install something good that's going to feed a Puritan Audio PSM156. I am now running ADG Gran Vivace monos. I prefer a rich midrange.

Additionally, I asked for both a 15 and 20 amp run. People suggested I do this so my sources can be run off the 15A with amps / subs off of the 20A, but someone here mentioned ground loops? I am not well-versed in things electrical. Ideally I would like to know if I should stick with the two runs, and what would be a few good choices for each outlet if I do. @jea48 @erik_squires ... I have seen solid advice from you on the topic of outlets, but they lack things specific to awg and outlet type.

Thank you in advance!

PS I estimate the length of the run to be approximately 50', max.

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Doesn’t afci/gfci refer to duplex receptacles that are used when there isn’t a ground wire present? You can buy them at Home Depot.

@evelyn1

They are 2 different types of protection. GFCI protects from shock, AFCI from fires, and the requirements are different.

GENERALLY speaking, GFCI is required near water (bathrooms, kitchens and outside) or to replace 2 prong outlets when a true ground isn’t present. The Ground Fault (GF of GFCI) happens when you become part of the electrical current pathway.

Arc Fault Circuit Interruptors, now upgraded to Combined AFCI (i.e. CAFCI), detect sparks that happen in the walls or junction boxes. While GFCI is required near anything wet, CAFCI is now required on ALL residential 120V circuits.

So, generally speaking, CAFCI gets implemented in breakers, GFCI on outlets, but there are combined breakers and outlets that do both.

Should note however that while GFCI’s are legal for 2 to 3 prong upgrades in old homes most surge protectors won’t work without a true ground. If you have expensive computers or home electronics and want surge protection you should get a ground installed.

Historically, GFCI predates AFCI by decades, but the NEC has continued to expand the requirement for them. Now you may need GFCI on your range or refrigerator depending on where they are in your kitchen, and those are most convenient with GFCI breakers.

Of course, these requirements are only enforced with new construction and updates. You aren’t required to retrofit old circuits but you may.

Should note however that while GFCI’s are legal for 2 to 3 prong upgrades in old homes most surge protectors won’t work without a true ground. If you have expensive computers or home electronics and want surge protection you should get a ground installed.

@erik_squires, explain surge protection on a product with a 2 prong AC cord.

 

@thespeakerdude

explain surge protection on a product with a 2 prong AC cord.

 

Typical MOV based surge protectors use the ground as a drain. At high surge voltages they attempt to short to ground and sometimes the neutral as well. Using a GFCI as a 2 to 3 pin adaptor won't create a magical ground path.  That is, there would be no ground to short to.

With any appliance the surge protector is trying to keep surges which (hopefully) are coming down the hot wire.  So, you have 600V suddenly on your hot. Where do you put it?  Neutral is 1 conductor, but having 2 conductors is better.  What if the surge happens on both neutral AND hot?  You need ground as your option.

Pure series mode surge protectors like SurgeX and Brickwall are exceptions. Furman / Panamax with SMP uses a belt and suspenders approach though, so while they are mostly series mode, there is some shunting possible, and they need that ground.

Based on the latest testing I’ve seen however Furman and Tripp Lite have the lowest let-through voltages, not to mention a plethora of features so I continue to recommend them first.

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I remember before arc fault protection came along that GFI was a ground fault breaker and that GFCI was a ground fault receptacle.

@evelyn1 The same feature (GFCI) is available in either a breaker or outlet. It’s more convenient as an outlet if you are in the kitchen and trip it. Dry your hands and reset the outlet. I use the term interchangeably and I think most do as well (see below).

It’s less useful to have a GFCI outlet for a fridge or range because you have to pull the unit out to get to it. 🤣 This is why GFCI breakers are convenient. However the behavior is 100% the same.

(PS - I just checked the Siemens site and they call them GFCI breakers too)