Outlets and Wire Gauge? - Please help!

@jea48 I uploaded a photo of the panel to my system.You can see it under my profile.

I do not worry too much about this. The electrician plans on rearranging some things. He may be adding a sub panel for this. 

I only listen at night when the family has gone to bed. I have central air - no ceiling fans. 

I will be connecting a new Puritan Audio 156. My PS Audio PP20 is for sale.

I have been living off of a single 15A run that has more cheap outlets along the run than you would believe, and I have been happy with the sound. I am expecting better things from dedicated runs, and I will finally be able to have some lighting in the room by using the old 15A run

Doesn’t afci/gfci refer to duplex receptacles that are used when there isn’t a ground wire present? You can buy them at Home Depot.

@evelyn1

They are 2 different types of protection. GFCI protects from shock, AFCI from fires, and the requirements are different.

GENERALLY speaking, GFCI is required near water (bathrooms, kitchens and outside) or to replace 2 prong outlets when a true ground isn’t present. The Ground Fault (GF of GFCI) happens when you become part of the electrical current pathway.

Arc Fault Circuit Interruptors, now upgraded to Combined AFCI (i.e. CAFCI), detect sparks that happen in the walls or junction boxes. While GFCI is required near anything wet, CAFCI is now required on ALL residential 120V circuits.

So, generally speaking, CAFCI gets implemented in breakers, GFCI on outlets, but there are combined breakers and outlets that do both.

Should note however that while GFCI’s are legal for 2 to 3 prong upgrades in old homes most surge protectors won’t work without a true ground. If you have expensive computers or home electronics and want surge protection you should get a ground installed.

Historically, GFCI predates AFCI by decades, but the NEC has continued to expand the requirement for them. Now you may need GFCI on your range or refrigerator depending on where they are in your kitchen, and those are most convenient with GFCI breakers.

Of course, these requirements are only enforced with new construction and updates. You aren’t required to retrofit old circuits but you may.

Should note however that while GFCI’s are legal for 2 to 3 prong upgrades in old homes most surge protectors won’t work without a true ground. If you have expensive computers or home electronics and want surge protection you should get a ground installed.

@erik_squires, explain surge protection on a product with a 2 prong AC cord.

@thespeakerdude

explain surge protection on a product with a 2 prong AC cord.

Typical MOV based surge protectors use the ground as a drain. At high surge voltages they attempt to short to ground and sometimes the neutral as well. Using a GFCI as a 2 to 3 pin adaptor won't create a magical ground path.  That is, there would be no ground to short to.

With any appliance the surge protector is trying to keep surges which (hopefully) are coming down the hot wire.  So, you have 600V suddenly on your hot. Where do you put it?  Neutral is 1 conductor, but having 2 conductors is better.  What if the surge happens on both neutral AND hot?  You need ground as your option.

Pure series mode surge protectors like SurgeX and Brickwall are exceptions. Furman / Panamax with SMP uses a belt and suspenders approach though, so while they are mostly series mode, there is some shunting possible, and they need that ground.

Based on the latest testing I’ve seen however Furman and Tripp Lite have the lowest let-through voltages, not to mention a plethora of features so I continue to recommend them first.