Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig

@williewonka, hey Steve I'm glad you responded to this confirming my doubt about Cu. and Ag. in parallel.

The 20 AWG and 24AWG Ag. I have are all P/Connex solid bare and if I add the #20 to the mix will result in about 17.5AWG. As the interconnect stands it has an SOCT-18 as neutral which is smaller than your recommendation to have a thicker wire for neutral. Is this going to impact negatively on the performance? I hope not.

My options with what I have on hand:

Replace the helix coil with SOCT-16  or  add an additional SOCT-18

If I'm not mistaken, according to Stephanie, that is the last we will see of the BARE 14AWG Cu. Any suggestions for a substitute?

 

@pindac, yes the CCC wire is impressive as is the OCC Ag. As most of us realise systems differ and mine which is border line over-analytical requires, I think a mix of these two types.

I will modify the 'skinny' IC and allow many more hours play and then figure out what direction to go.

What I do know now is that the helix design is inherently superior to anything else I've tried. To this end my Van den Hul Orchid interconnect was my reference. It's basically a single stand of Ag. in VdH 'special' insulation with a coax style neutral and additional screen. He uses hybrid and various weird stuff in his cables. I used to refer to his cables as Van den Dull but the Orchid is an exception to this.

When I replaced the above with the CCC helix I was immediately thrilled with what I was hearing. This one pair of interconnects was not just different and a little better, it took my system to a higher level and my thinking changed!

This expensive exercise has possibly saved me money 🤔

I no longer feel that maybe it's time to upgrade my 30 year old Wadia 15 DAC. Plays redbook only and I do not feel this is a handicap. My DIY power amp is performing beautifully with explosive transients and dynamics. It can stay.

More experimentation with different concoctions will add to the Helix Cookbook recipes.

@lemonhaze - having a slightly smaller neutral will not impact performance singificantly.

You could add a second 18 gauge Neutral which would make it larger than the revised signal conductor, but I would wait until you’ve listened to it and then if you feel there is some shorcomings then perhaps tackcle a second neutral OR even replace it with a 16 gauge neutral

I might opt for a 16 gauge neutral, as it might provide a slight advantage over a 2 x 18 gauge neutral.

I tried a dual wire neutral and for me it did not provide enough of an advantage considering the addition effort it took to build. But others swear by the dual neutral build.

My build was using bare wire inside teflon tube for the neutral, while it is a very nice cable

  • I did not find using a dual neutral was significantly better
  • I did not find using bare wire inside a teflon tube to provide any noticeable benefit
  • My other two cables use 16 guage wire with Teflon insulation

WRT the bare 14 gauge wire - I guess you would have to buy wire with teflon insulation and remvove the insulation. I did this before I found the bare wire

I think there is a version that has PVC insulation which is more affordable

Hope that helps

 

@williewonka, I will heed your advice, add the extra signal wire and allow it to accumulate some hours before doing anything else. I think that the single strand of wire should not take as long to settle down as the full build did.

Yes the OCC is available with PVC insulation and is as you say less expensive than PTFE. It's also easier to remove.