Rogue Audio. Reliability issues? Anyone?


I recently have been loving an Atlas Magnum power amplifier. I had a tube go bad, a fuse blow, and now red-plating. All of this could be related. But I am trying to decide if I want to pay shipping both ways ($90 each way), pay Rogue’s $175 bench fee (minimum) and then spend ungodly amounts on tubes that are hard to find.

I have friends, two to be exact, inform me that Rogue is notorious for this crap and their amplifiers are money pits. Is this normal tube stuff? Should I go for it or cut my losses and buy something else. I really love the way it sounds amd I really want to love Rogue. 

nickrobotron

They might have got somewhat of a bad rep for their cathode-bias amps of 20+ years ago. That would be the 88 and M120 models. These amps threw out a whole lot more heat, which can cause problems.

Their current tube amp models are manually biased via trimpots & built-in meter, and these have proven quite reliable. With any tube amp, there’s no 100% perfect fail-safe for a sudden catastrophic tube short. I had this happen with an Electro Harmonix KT90 in my Rogue Apollo monoblocks, circa 2010. It dusted a metal oxide resistor and singed ~ 1cm of circuit board trace. Trace was still working but the solder mask got burned off so Rogue replaced the whole board under warranty. So yes, a bad tube can cause collateral damage that requires service. I switched to KT120 tubes after that incident, and they’ve been exceptionally reliable. Never had another problem in the next 12 years of Apollo ownership.

Tube amps with advanced auto-bias & protection circuitry might have a slightly lower risk, and P2P wired amps have no PCB board to damage. Never had the slightest issue with my VAC auto-bias tube amps so far, though I’m only 4 years in with these amps.

In your case, I would definitely send the Atlas in. Bit of a bummer, but better to get this sorted now. It's a great little amp, and Rogue customer support is fantastic.

Power tubes are matched for Gm and Ip.

Bias controls static Ip [plate current].

Gm is how much the tube responds to drive change.

Mismatched tubes have more 2nd harmonic, i.e. fat tube sound coloration.

I match drivers, triode halves and power tubes. The difference is clearly audible.

See ieLogical Valve Tester.

@nickrobotron Tube gear is pricy to own. I had a GL KT88 eat its cookies at about 1k hours. [It’s silly to run w/o hour meters.] So now I have GL KT88 spare quad, spare pair and spare.

Most tube gear is pretty simple and easily repairable with a bit of knowledge and a schematic. Of course, if you’re careless it can kill you. $175 seems cheap enough.

I have had an RP-1 for years.  At about 2 years had to replace stock tubes. Then about 5 years had to send it in and have the front control panel board replaced as volume control went wonky. Proly $300 total.  They turned it around promptly. 
 

sounds great and I expect more years of service.  Good value product in my opinion. 

There are several KT120's available on eBay. Not my first choice by far, but I had a dead KT120 in my Chronos Magnum when it arrived as new to me used. The previous owner never checked the bias...  So, I picked up a pair. They were Tung Sol and they sound great.